tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34907369195988686802024-02-19T16:52:29.848+00:00The Perfect TroughA Pig's search for a good feed. Food and Travel, London and Abroad...The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.comBlogger159125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-45530807507276949592013-10-03T15:03:00.001+01:002013-10-03T17:41:51.245+01:00SMITHS (Spitalfields)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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SMITHS (capitalised once for correctness, but not to be repeated)
is a newly opened spot in Spitalfields. Although it’s not really new, being
an effective rebrand of the old LUXE (sic, old naming habits die hard seemingly), to share the branding of its Smithfield sibling. Cheshire high streets, beware! To be honest, I’m not 100% sure on the
history or the status of John Torode's involvement (edit: he is no longer involved), but as this is a blog with no
sub-editors or unpaid interns, boring facts can wait. It’s basically a reboot.</div>
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I liked the old Luxe, it was a well-executed venue with
crisp branding and reasonable food and drink. Smiths is largely the same – at
street level is a bar, with a restaurant upstairs and some sort of nightlife
offering in the basement. Food is strikingly similar; a lot of grills and some
random contemporary dishes such as braised short rib. There is some
disconcertingly random geography among the starters; salads of green papaya co-exist
with those of caprese, and both chicken liver parfait and spring rolls feature
too. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGlhghvoYhGlwoPzjotRArrl8GnPAMVHeksLkO2p8NMjN-4Ub24-9dj5QAN9KVvpS4vnpJpw2xmkZ9hyphenhyphenXVuXAtz3SGuUmSSGqVoix144sGz4mNlzZmapmfwWCqYv4cLQTETLAKIAgEOpw/s1600/546542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGlhghvoYhGlwoPzjotRArrl8GnPAMVHeksLkO2p8NMjN-4Ub24-9dj5QAN9KVvpS4vnpJpw2xmkZ9hyphenhyphenXVuXAtz3SGuUmSSGqVoix144sGz4mNlzZmapmfwWCqYv4cLQTETLAKIAgEOpw/s400/546542.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The nuts and bolts of the place are decent. Service is
especially lovely (I need to declare here that I was invited to review Smiths,
so this could have been a factor) – and the grills were good. But I would not
say brilliant. For an establishment known for meat (and John Torode did pitch
himself as a beef expert at times) the steak wasn’t amazing. Grill temperature
couldn’t have been high enough to deliver a medium-rare piece of meat like the above. It should be bristled with char and burn, not tokenistically striped like a Whopper.</div>
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With Hawksmoor up the road and St John opposite, you’d struggle
attracting a high-spending clientele here at that calibre. But perhaps that’s a
lazy comparison. It seems to be pitched a little lower - more heightened pub
food than upmarket steakhouse although to be fair I don’t think they are stating
otherwise.</div>
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My venison cheese burger was reasonable – a stonkingly dense
venison patty, cooked medium and with Cashel blue on top which worked well. The
chips were my naughties gastro pub nightmare: massively hot, enormous roast potatoes
masquerading as ‘hand-cut chips’. For fuck’s sake, it’s hardly a hard-working artisan
paradise cutting a potato three ways. Good whack of salad though.</div>
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What else? Well, the cheeseboard was pretty, adorned with
celery and some random sprigs of herbs. </div>
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Smiths for some reason left me a little cold, much
lesser than the sum of its parts. Everything was of a good standard and the
staff were excellent, but I think it was missing an originality, a character or a quirkiness to be memorable. It’s safe, dependable and so straight down
the line, that in being inoffensive it renders itself towards forgettable. </div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1778557/restaurant/Shoreditch/Smiths-Spitalfields-London"><img alt="Smiths, Spitalfields on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1778557/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; width: 104px;" /></a> </div>
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<![endif]-->The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-50485431379579278312013-09-18T10:55:00.001+01:002013-09-18T10:55:12.810+01:00GrillshackGrillshack has thankfully replaced the execrable Alphabet
Bar on Beak Street, and early signs are positive. First impressions are a slightly baffling array of innovation; no reservations standard but you can sign up for
a text when your table is ready. But once you’re in, the options for ordering
are overwhelming. Do you download their app and go through that? Or perhaps
at the DIY till points? Or yes, there is a counter. Which
most people seem to do.
<br />
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The menu is edited fairly tightly – the burger with add-ons (my
newly gluten-free other half is appeased here, but at a 75p surcharge absent
from the admittedly higher priced Honest Burgers), a steak, some chicken. Basic
yes, and not ground-breaking so far. Although crowd pleasers equate to crowds and this
has certainly been the case on both visits of mine.</div>
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Grillshack’s £5-ish burger is my nap here: a juicy, decent
sized patty, just pink enough for the purists among us, pretty damn tasty. Bun replete with a light bead of sweat, and bacon proper. </div>
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The steak with shoestring
fries is value for the meat alone; a rib-eye supposedly but
pulverised into the sort of escalope you might expect in a steak sandwich.
No complaints at a £10 price point. Their regular fries have a fantastic
seasoning which eclipses the rather lacklustre shoestrings too, which need a
touch of sexing up, April Bloomfield style.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDckIwZp5NRB913o_Abma6_zpkbuwCmW7FudmkCMGWuc2FByyTge_6k3EoVrrqedNMlbmmQAXOOC1BGqVXQv3O_oj6DEZPFjoR6ADd1bIuMTerVN7hHhMaLsvK4H-s4gabZCyft1N2Xw/s1600/ee.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDckIwZp5NRB913o_Abma6_zpkbuwCmW7FudmkCMGWuc2FByyTge_6k3EoVrrqedNMlbmmQAXOOC1BGqVXQv3O_oj6DEZPFjoR6ADd1bIuMTerVN7hHhMaLsvK4H-s4gabZCyft1N2Xw/s400/ee.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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But food isn’t the main draw here. It’s serviceable, nay,
quite good, but the ease and charm of Grillshack won this pig over. At such great value it’s definitely positioning itself as a Flat
Iron, Five Guys and Shake Shack contender, and leaving the higher end of those
markets well alone. The key will be repeat business, bolstered by service
levels. Which are fantastic by the way; truly attentive and friendly. </div>
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Richard Caring’s stewardship of Le Caprice, Soho House Group
and others over the years has proven that punters return hungrily again and
again for 7/10 food when you give them 9/10 service. As long as it’s decent, great people add the magic finishing touch to make the occasion. Grillshack is a fast
food version of that clever approach. </div>
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Yes I’m a predictable cynic and Grillshack is an achingly portable concept, probably
conceived as such, but so what? Better more of this than some of the rubbish
out there now, and nobody would object to W1 service levels radiating outwards,
with the food people actually want to eat.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1772396/restaurant/Soho/Grillshack-London"><img alt="Grillshack on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1772396/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a><br />
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-73259515507649550832013-09-04T16:07:00.002+01:002013-09-04T16:08:15.501+01:00Casse-CroûteCasse-Cro<span class="st">û</span>te is a relatively new
French bistro, bang in the middle of that strip of foodie escapism, Bermondsey Street.
Sure, you can have a very London experience in either of the opposing boozers,
but Jose and Pizarro can whisk you away to Madrid, Village East
to New York and Zucca to Milan. Although I always find Zucca has a
New York feel too. And Village East is getting a long overdue refurb, so who knows.<br />
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</div>
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But anyway, the point remains that Bermondsey Street is like
being on holiday. A sophisticated, epicurean update of the pulling
holiday’s ubiquitous ‘bar street’, only it’s for people with slightly more money and
slightly less flesh on show. Slightly. And ironically, more actual Europeans than
the Brit-infested resorts.</div>
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Casse-Cro<span class="st">û</span>te (might as well persist
with the accent) is the cookie-cutter charming neighbourhood place of your
dreams, to a fault. It vaguely reminded me of The Little Owl in that regard. The
welcome and exuberance are <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">en francais</i>,
but they were far warmer than any I’ve received in France. And yes, that
includes outside of Paris. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV45dOXxzCFyAqJelmIyFCa7ZFbR16ZGX6a7K19SiXJ7C-jaHJvxMVaGQZVXlLj13nIaQ2yjxZCeOTMfDYaUND0TJ1ie4gdcG4ZbCxsi4hjwsNXvmkCHvUZuPdgjRD1AsMjJSbZj_B8hQ/s1600/11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV45dOXxzCFyAqJelmIyFCa7ZFbR16ZGX6a7K19SiXJ7C-jaHJvxMVaGQZVXlLj13nIaQ2yjxZCeOTMfDYaUND0TJ1ie4gdcG4ZbCxsi4hjwsNXvmkCHvUZuPdgjRD1AsMjJSbZj_B8hQ/s400/11.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Food? Well, we ate an awful lot. Before the starters, charcuterie
sliced to order mere inches from our heads accompanied a crisp cremant. A
nice menu touch, as too often (even in French places) the non-champagne option is prosecco – not to
be sniffed at of course, but some beautiful fizz comes from The Loire too. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB9dE2Ij9FvdMOUlQYK5VQoLbHTiqTdZqzi6Z6_q4kdzRXrXIu7klupYXcSvZWiw4J0Y41H1IoNxGPaay7OLf9IesOT4FTfvauhNcYoPUz-DYdGKsuajkJDmMAjpQmrjLhKakVaEP_IgM/s1600/12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB9dE2Ij9FvdMOUlQYK5VQoLbHTiqTdZqzi6Z6_q4kdzRXrXIu7klupYXcSvZWiw4J0Y41H1IoNxGPaay7OLf9IesOT4FTfvauhNcYoPUz-DYdGKsuajkJDmMAjpQmrjLhKakVaEP_IgM/s400/12.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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To start, a garlicky sausage and onion jam laden brioche (a posh sausage
roll and no less for it). Excellent. As for the others’ dishes, to be honest I
can’t actually remember as we were already rolling in the aisles.</div>
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Blame the handsome
staff for turning our table of gals and gays a tad bawdy (the raging horn, in fact) or that seductively thirsty
combination of food, open windows and a warm summer night – but we had a very
good time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQWZNZ_xC9ngvmJgqDC82BuDnEjemp-n4HkVFwqZBGeApa30yfSNCId9y2FCiarvfiq-2rkn9F3ohR9hTxgddx5NLMxiGcivPOZcbfS8k3hV5yzPFp0QJgbA4wAyzDbJDO78FwPFfXps/s1600/14.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQWZNZ_xC9ngvmJgqDC82BuDnEjemp-n4HkVFwqZBGeApa30yfSNCId9y2FCiarvfiq-2rkn9F3ohR9hTxgddx5NLMxiGcivPOZcbfS8k3hV5yzPFp0QJgbA4wAyzDbJDO78FwPFfXps/s400/14.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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On to mains, a huge, beautiful platter of roast lamb was shared.
I had a pork dish I wasn’t familiar with but it was a massive, house-made
sausage in a rich broth of cannellini beans and vegetables.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXplP6dOZWH34TZ7uG5ax7iB9zXCvtLW4DpSMHD_HfYZTwmL5He-ma1065JX6-HcVAGvfXIVeeLA0mZx8pqW5tiJgf6kJzrcPZ0ST5dKY7a2WF0l7ZuwxoFNIKBsGNokJvNoq-YKSq7k/s1600/13.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXplP6dOZWH34TZ7uG5ax7iB9zXCvtLW4DpSMHD_HfYZTwmL5He-ma1065JX6-HcVAGvfXIVeeLA0mZx8pqW5tiJgf6kJzrcPZ0ST5dKY7a2WF0l7ZuwxoFNIKBsGNokJvNoq-YKSq7k/s400/13.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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So, sausage rolls and
then sausage and beans. Very cosmopolitan, me.</div>
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I can barely remember leaving, but we did share amongst
other things an amazing strawberry and pistachio tart. One wine followed the
other as we glugged from Loire to Rhone, and they were all delicious.</div>
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I absolutely loved Casse-Cro<span class="st">û</span>te. The
only issue with its quality, vibes and ever-changing menu is that my every
attempt to return has failed miserably. One for the little black book yes, but the
secret’s out.</div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1765720/restaurant/Bermondsey/Casse-Croute-London"><img alt="Casse Croute on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1765720/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-46536957269638982872013-08-14T14:40:00.000+01:002013-08-14T14:42:02.047+01:00Flesh & Buns<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Flesh & Buns has managed to pull off that rare miracle in
London's food scene; originality. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">It is a hotchpotch of Japanese dishes,
with Korean and Chinese elements lurking around, but to call it an izakaya
would be completely missing the point. It’s not an izakaya, in the same way
that The Ivy is not a pub, even though they both serve safe, generalist
classics such as Shepherd’s Pie. </span></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">In addition to the meat + buns main event, their offering
ranges from sushi to yakitori, with plenty in between. Our chicken yakitori was
sweet, faintly pink and absolutely charred to Tokyo yokocho perfection, but
without the fag fumes. The fried squid, which at best I am ambivalent to, was zingy,
light and lacked any rubbery texture at all. A first for me. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip8aKdcdQAF1REGVonUj9-Z5nntteX3Itn9avQhpgNVsOYOwYw5vz6KIK9qk7Ji4lzaKLa8Vss9WOv-_7IUBwhWqcYKijNHuWwtJpKIO7ZrXzbCc6q9v5-CkASTez_QzlTLxF-ZL6IXlM/s1600/67.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip8aKdcdQAF1REGVonUj9-Z5nntteX3Itn9avQhpgNVsOYOwYw5vz6KIK9qk7Ji4lzaKLa8Vss9WOv-_7IUBwhWqcYKijNHuWwtJpKIO7ZrXzbCc6q9v5-CkASTez_QzlTLxF-ZL6IXlM/s400/67.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Beef tataki was vinegary, tangy and frankly divine:</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz0UJ1LBOppJqEMtfzk6Hvj4rR6Uw-naT7hA3YK09xIt70Kzr33ddxcDE8LHNJT4m8J9AV08Ck_pg71aYlE_Xq4ogYL-t-wqh8z5PF27UptnJ4rVAGRIeWhK3Ajo_wbW78lfgn1PzBmP4/s1600/66.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz0UJ1LBOppJqEMtfzk6Hvj4rR6Uw-naT7hA3YK09xIt70Kzr33ddxcDE8LHNJT4m8J9AV08Ck_pg71aYlE_Xq4ogYL-t-wqh8z5PF27UptnJ4rVAGRIeWhK3Ajo_wbW78lfgn1PzBmP4/s400/66.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">But on to the buns. The idea is to order from a range of
predominantly meat dishes which come with hirata buns (similar to the
bleached-white char sui dim sum buns but in halves) to fill. Cucumber and hoi
sin-esque dipping sauces feature heavily, and so it’s fair to equate this with
something in between the rituals of Peking duck and making your own sarnies. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Many meals fundamentally boil down to DIY sandwich-making (observe us Brits in
a tapas place) and so I have no doubts about its enduring popularity here.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Both of our dishes were fantastic. Top marks went to the
Flat Iron steak – exquisitely cooked and sliced. The pork belly with mustard
miso was also excellent, and a much bigger portion. </span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFYp-Sql_6HWL6FyooAtkRYPeiD2gzmRTiEsAVGwmu6OtLjZf5uUyAUCuQQRZS9QO7WmGVyAma4x2MSADUAn3eINaBbelSuZV-ICuKOCaSjv0xZ8YRzGHYRCr10MlcifTGw6tA4ZSRJmc/s1600/68.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFYp-Sql_6HWL6FyooAtkRYPeiD2gzmRTiEsAVGwmu6OtLjZf5uUyAUCuQQRZS9QO7WmGVyAma4x2MSADUAn3eINaBbelSuZV-ICuKOCaSjv0xZ8YRzGHYRCr10MlcifTGw6tA4ZSRJmc/s400/68.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">The venue itself is long, open and woody – not hugely
different to Wagamama I’m afraid, but I’m unsure how else to have done it
differently, and it works. I remember this as some sort of dreadful pre-craft,
Belgian-style microbrewery which itself was a MASH rip off.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Service was super keen and friendly. My date, the inimitable Grace Dent,
kept to her inimitable punctuality and although I only waited about 15 minutes
and was more than happy guzzling my Asahi, the Japanese waitress sweetly and sympathetically
asked me if I wanted to order, but now for one. I’ve never been stood up in such
a manner, but having experienced a taste of the accompanying pity, it’s not a morale
booster…</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I absolutely loved the food here. Charred, sweet, smokey and
meaty. Meat. Carb. Sauce. All you ever really need. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">In these heady days of opening-chasing, endless soft
launches, 'pop-up pop-ups' and the perpetual hunt for the next thing, I can
safely utter some endangered words in London’s 2013 food scene: “I will actually
come back here.” </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1763926/restaurant/Covent-Garden/Flesh-and-Buns-London"><img alt="Flesh and Buns on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1763926/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a> </span></span></div>
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-52905296595370181142013-08-08T12:51:00.005+01:002013-08-08T12:51:58.762+01:00Soho Diner<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Soho Diner is the new incarnation of Bar Boheme, previously
a weak point in the otherwise faultless repertoire of the Soho House gang,
although to be fair it was very of its time. But times move on, and in place of
mojitos we have negronis on tap (startlingly potent) and instead of a cocktail
stick poking into the burger, it is speared by a massive knife. Yup.</span></span><br />
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I only tried two dishes which were some ham and cheese
fingers and the burger. The fingers were a toastie cut into strips with pointless
dip. Fine if you’re after such a thing, but frankly it’s a bit shit.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">I love a toastie, but I don't come to Soho for one. Well, I did as you see below. But the fried chicken was sold out and I didn't know it would be so basic. Fool me once...</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvby7Rio7osLy6saIuZqtnJKiB03D4qtenLWOkEnzB1U0JJfmduIw7IUGcVxIXc6B84PWSxjiC4P6YBth1DfEhgYdbqAlmbyQjVMcdjvjx0sfMb-CT6uDAbOsLfqOZebW3V_6izqJius/s1600/22.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvby7Rio7osLy6saIuZqtnJKiB03D4qtenLWOkEnzB1U0JJfmduIw7IUGcVxIXc6B84PWSxjiC4P6YBth1DfEhgYdbqAlmbyQjVMcdjvjx0sfMb-CT6uDAbOsLfqOZebW3V_6izqJius/s400/22.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">The burger
was a surprise; as well as the steak knife, the ‘single’ came with two patties and
were cooked Dirty Burger style, that is to say, medium-well but still moist.
But in a steamed way, rather than richly juicy. Good value, but better to be
had nearby.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrAGsZD0cbKyBtsW8V6XTNMamn6SwFTNc2C8Hc-WcxMlevRKqOR435Dohf5pSd4hlXF23GiJjjZEKlK9kU9zs3RN9JI-Iljm4G3JlGckAVRkNw3JmpMSvysz4ZHwa5D4tI4LNEDyu9Jj0/s1600/22.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxPD9rPzcV2_gCvJfF_mi0FXuRg2DH7no9TJiDkhSjhrxGyiQHZm57DA5OCsb8KmzAyuEayviH9adi8BFCHUXwvAl9qSl6eaxOcMvhl-pRrOVnP5A-yfgLbxaKKFZW_vi-uAlgDABW61g/s1600/23.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxPD9rPzcV2_gCvJfF_mi0FXuRg2DH7no9TJiDkhSjhrxGyiQHZm57DA5OCsb8KmzAyuEayviH9adi8BFCHUXwvAl9qSl6eaxOcMvhl-pRrOVnP5A-yfgLbxaKKFZW_vi-uAlgDABW61g/s400/23.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">These guys show continually fantastic judgement, from their clubs
to the restaurants and the touches consistent across their diverse portfolio,
there is a real sixth sense for what the market needs and an extremely delicate
balance between the informal, the exclusive and the business friendly. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">The real appeal here is the location and licensing – it’s
open until 3am on weekends so you can grab a passable burger, some more rocket
fuel and engage in what is still some of the best people-watching in London.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1763565/restaurant/Soho/Soho-Diner-London"><img alt="Soho Diner on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1763565/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a> </span></span></div>
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-33146967817684977582013-07-05T12:15:00.000+01:002013-07-05T12:17:03.922+01:00Shake Shack, London<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Food commentators on Twitter, the London press and even some
of my previously oblivious, nonchalant mates had remarked that London’s burger
mania had peaked and become dull. Even my Mum is aware of the craze. But this
week’s opening of US transplants Shake Shack and Five Guys surely marks the
crescendo.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">As the debates rage on the limits of queuing, on London’s
colonisation by US chains and thirdly on whether the humble burger itself merits
all of this attention, it can be difficult to maintain a stance. The ‘to each
their own’ mantra so universally appropriate has to be the way forward here.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Personally I wouldn’t like to queue 2 hours for a burger,
but if someone does, that’s fine. I wouldn’t sleep rough for a new iPhone either,
but I did wait 45 minutes at Frank’s for a lukewarm, assembly line Negroni which
I could have bettered for free in my suntrap garden around the corner. So I’m a
mug too… or, we’ve all got our weaknesses.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Is London becoming the 51<sup>st</sup> State in regards to
openings? Well, perhaps. We have Balthazar now, and in retail, J Crew and
Williams Sonoma are following Banana Republic, Abercrombie & Fitch and many
more before them. Nothing new there though. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I doubt anyone would rather the
repulsive Quick of France, or Pans & Co of Spain, and we should be pleased
about the employment and investment created. Frankly, heightened service levels
might cross the pond too. I’d much rather a Japanese invasion of fashion and
food, but that’s another story. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">But the burger itself should surely be the main issue. Is it
worthy enough of all this hype? Is it just meat within two slices of bread?
Yes, of course. But therefore a steak is just grilled meat and sashimi is just sliced
fish? Anything can be disseminated for ridicule. If somebody values something
to queue for a certain period or pay £15, then that is its value. Simple.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">But Shake Shack itself? From the preview: a bit disappointing.
They’ve made a huge effort, the team are fantastic and I wish the venture well –
but the Smoke Stack burger (with cheese, bacon, peppers and a cloying mayo-based sauce)
lacked much depth in flavour. The Aberdeen Angus patties were greyish inside, underseasoned and
underwhelming. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Top marks for the cheesy crinkle cut fries, and the
shakes themselves. Kernel beer is decent but I hope they end up
collborating with a London brewery here, as with Brooklyn’s Shackmeister. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Curiously, the Cumberland sausage hot dog was the stand-out
dish for me. Rich, gamey flavours and the crispy shallots were a perfect
accompaniment and substitution for the usual bog-standard onions. With more of
that cheese sauce. Fantastic, and probably the one reason I’d return.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I’ve eaten in Shake Shack in New York, and enjoyed it. The
branding is superb and the staff great, but the actual food isn’t memorable on
its own merits. It’s not as good as Burger Joint at Le Parker Meridien. Or
Fanelli’s. Or countless other more affordable burgers in New York.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Let’s be truthful here: that positive Shake Shack NY impression becomes
amplified when back home and amalgamated into the joys and vibrancy of a New
York visit overall. The superlatives come out, the power of nostalgia becomes inscrutable,
the positive memories indelible. But we in London have been busy, and this isn’t
a patch on Honest Burgers or Tommi’s.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1755887/restaurant/Covent-Garden/Shake-Shack-London"><img alt="Shake Shack on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1755887/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></span></span>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-16013117109889006152013-07-03T09:03:00.000+01:002013-07-03T11:50:19.514+01:00The Crooked Well<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Amble down from the madness of Denmark Hill station towards
Camberwell and you might double take at your surroundings. The grandeur of
Camberwell Grove, faded in parts, undimmed in others, is well-known, but parallel Grove Lane is more of a hidden gem. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And believe me, having recently made the pilgrimage down to SE5 (responsible for your humble correspondent's brief hiatus), I ensure every single visitor witnesses </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">it, hopefully distracted from the lively folk of the Maudsley, just behind. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">That rarest of London phenomena; a pristine, un-Blitzed
terrace of Georgian houses with a comfortable ten metres of croquet-ready lawn frontage, it should by rights be somewhere far more salubrious. By the same logic, so too should The
Crooked Well, a relaxed yet upscale pub dining room – but they both seem to
fit in just fine.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The term gastropub doesn’t mean anything much in 2013, and
it’s lazy at best. In fact it’s odious. But I’m sure it would be bandied about
here; ostensibly just a pub where dining comes before boozing. Perfectly ok here, as
there are plenty of nearby boozers and often the contrast of ‘finer’ dining and
quality service in pubby environs makes for a more relaxed experience. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From The
Oak in Notting Hill to Fulham's Harewood Arms, it's evident that the exoskeleton of a pub can reassure many who'd sweat profusely in a stuffier venue about cutlery etiquette or how to react when that sign of quality, the metal crumb scraper comes out. Clue: it's less awkward than lazing around the house while the cleaner is grafting away. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNx2auWF0-WGzTU7iL-u4HSS4Y8Z249Nx2igjBc_5aVf-IYGh_nbeMRgLoK24KkUOwhaLkM6zxrmWFAoWOTMtNqgYzxv2oFqa0ZLBYXhyJ8xDFBlDpQ90B3ljj9fig_IMUMl2KQ5_-CVY/s1600/IMG_3175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNx2auWF0-WGzTU7iL-u4HSS4Y8Z249Nx2igjBc_5aVf-IYGh_nbeMRgLoK24KkUOwhaLkM6zxrmWFAoWOTMtNqgYzxv2oFqa0ZLBYXhyJ8xDFBlDpQ90B3ljj9fig_IMUMl2KQ5_-CVY/s400/IMG_3175.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Food is modern British, not wildly adventurous but
definitely a step up from a tarted up pub menu. There are three dishes for two
to share; a fish pie, a <span class="st">Côte </span>de Boeuf and the masterful rabbit
& bacon pie. And yes, it really requires two people.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Other highlights included picanha steak, pata negra, a cocktail of the
day with charitable donation and a list of strictly French apertifs, unique in
eschewing those ubiquitous red and orange bitters of Milan. The cheeseboard is
impressive too.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_xPH18R9kRXL3cFlZ0ufrZZN1nrV3mmyWGZrQ8Kh0PT35Pi_GTsrsiZyzID_vKQ7M8cb6md7SMb4FE4ki5ovTe0lVDHPMEOJmbyDDj0oozELKZGZN5SwYHwxJ9w0bNnzsTYjd1TOnkyg/s1600/IMG_3178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_xPH18R9kRXL3cFlZ0ufrZZN1nrV3mmyWGZrQ8Kh0PT35Pi_GTsrsiZyzID_vKQ7M8cb6md7SMb4FE4ki5ovTe0lVDHPMEOJmbyDDj0oozELKZGZN5SwYHwxJ9w0bNnzsTYjd1TOnkyg/s400/IMG_3178.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I’m trying to resist being too effusive, but it’s just really rather good here. Service is attentive and well-informed but laid back, warm bread is offered more than once, and the chips are bloody excellent. There is little more satisfying
than well-executed simplicity, and The Crooked Well balances its uncomplicated
quality with a hint of refinement to work for most occasions. Except perhaps a
raucous knees-up. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Crucially both the (briefly) idyllic setting and the pub
itself are absolutley perfect for that South East London parental charm offensive, when they’re wondering what on earth possessed you to move here. Cue astonishment and relief as they walk through the door; places like this are exactly why I won’t be going anywhere
for a long time.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> <a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1605111/restaurant/Camberwell/Crooked-Well-London"><img alt="Crooked Well on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1605111/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></span></span></div>
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-57939083476305961272013-05-01T12:44:00.001+01:002013-05-01T12:44:35.061+01:00The Delaunay<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Hard to believe as it is, April saw my first ever visit to
The Delaunay. This less formal, warmer incarnation of The Wolseley, with its
power breakfasts, Middle European afternoon tea and good-time crowd seems
already to be an institution. Going by my Twitter timeline, it’s now as
established as any West End stalwart. I've even recommended and referenced it to
people as somewhere to take parents, mindlessly oblivious the irony that I hadn’t been myself.</div>
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And it’s great. It has all the elements required to add a
little grandeur to a restaurant visit. The entrance is grand and instils a
slight specialness to your arrival. Staff are exceptionally polite,
well-groomed and as they take your coat and guide you to the bar area for a
some cold and fizzy, your socks are already charmed off.</div>
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Food is really very decent. There is nothing adventurous on
the menu, but that isn’t why you would dine here. The weekend brunch menu
ranges from breakfast staples to steaks, running through salads, fish dishes,
the odd burger and hot dog, and those Austro-Hungarian specialities you might
know from The Wolseley. </div>
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Hungover as I am wont to be on a Saturday, the chicken
noodle soup was beyond what the doctor ordered, beyond even junior doctors’ own
saline drip remedy perhaps. A piping hot clear broth, with strong chicken
flavour came with a decent amount of shredded chicken, the noodles and some veg
(carrots, celery?) to add further taste. Simple and fantastic.</div>
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Revived, prosecco-ed up and feeling much better about life
in general, my hungover choice of Chicken Cordon Bleu was still a solid decision.
A bit of retro fun, but executed perfectly. A huge, juicy chicken breast was flawlessly
breaded and filled with a layer of ham and cheese oozing out. It rested in a ridiculously
tasty jus and the whole dish was an absolute pleasure to eat, with a twist of nostalgia.
Surely there is nothing better than a fancy ‘kids’ tea’? The place that does
grown-up waffles and beans next has my vote. </div>
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Dessert options are compendious and faced with the choice of a
Viennese grand café, I retreated into my ignorant shell and plumped for the obvious
apple strudel with vanilla ice cream. It was crunchy, soft, warming and above
any criticism. I’m a simple man with relatively simple tastes though: much like
pancetta/bacon and savoury dishes, there are very few desserts a cheeky scoop
of vanilla won’t enhance. Or compensate for. But this was inscrutable.</div>
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I don’t have anything further to add on The Delaunay. As I
mentioned, bizarrely, it snuck into my repertoire and I spoke of it with familiarity
and affection long before I’d been. Which is so odd. But I guess is a testimony
to how consistent the reception has been that a dependable consensus seems to
have infiltrated my consciousness. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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Queuing for burgers and eating street food on the pavement
has its moments, but call me a traditionalist; this is how restaurants should
be. Simplicity, atmosphere, timelessly contemporary, reliable and with a sense
of occasion. It smacks of longevity already.<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b> </b></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Food</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/10<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Drink</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/10<b><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">S</span>ervice</b> - <span style="font-size: small;">9</span>/10<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Value</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">9</span>/10<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Tap water tales</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">6</span>/10 (no<span style="font-size: small;">minal<span style="font-size: small;">-charged filter option pushed, b<span style="font-size: small;">ut tap available)</span></span></span><b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Staff Hotness</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">9</span>/1<span style="font-size: small;">0</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1634604/restaurant/Holborn/The-Delaunay-London"><img alt="The Delaunay on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1634604/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a><br />
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-27374852620036129302013-04-18T13:20:00.001+01:002013-04-18T13:21:30.231+01:00Shoryu Ramen<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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must admit to being pretty late in collecting my final piece of the triforce.
Shoryu Ramen is one of that holy trinity of current ramen hotspots; the others
being Tonkotsu and Bone Daddies. Comparisons are inevitable but glib: certainly
if burger joints are anything to go by, saturation point is a long way off. <br />
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I had the charsui ramen, which comes with 7 roast pork slices. No
more, no less – it's so Japanese I love it. It’s quite astounding that in Japan,
your meal precisely resembles the picture or the model, down to the quantity of
every last item. Anywhere else it might seem parsimonious, but in Japan, it is just
so. You get what you see, and pay the exact price. No surprises thank you.</div>
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The broth was a good compromise between milkier, thinner broths
I have come across, and the more meaty, stock broths which have more flavour
but can be overly oily. Shoryu’s had plenty of flavour, but it wasn’t like
sucking crackling and even with my 7 pieces of pork, the broth wasn’t too oily.</div>
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The green accompaniments help further with that balance.
Throw in a boiled egg, and it really does become a full meal in a bowl. Notable here
is that only one egg half is provided, as opposed to two at Bone Daddies. It
wasn’t as buttery and indulgent either (the yolk is missing that golden orange hue), but was absolutely fine.</div>
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In terms of the pork itself, it was less fatty than either
Tonkotsu and Bone Daddies and for me, more enjoyable. </div>
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Overall, I rated Shoryu very highly. It was quick, easy and
authentic. Half of the dining room was Japanese, and a good few of the staff
too. I had a pot of green tea, and momentarily escaped the bus fumes and driving
rain, and returned to the Tokyo backstreets (and their rain and fumes).</div>
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If the authenticity of Shoryu is its draw card, then what of
the others? </div>
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Bone Daddies is great fun, and being Australian-run perhaps
isn't too honour-bound to deliver authenticity and traditionalism. And whilst rame is the speciality, the menu features more diverse items to the point of having <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">izakaya</i> generalism. The boozier vibe and
rock music support this idea that it’s a place to enjoy and socialism, as opposed to a
functional joint to grab a bowl of ramen, and scarper. </div>
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Tonkotsu? I’m not sure – I’ve never been that impressed;
their ramen is all stock (oil-slicked at that), light on the accompaniments and the roast pork is all fat. I do like the space, but it's a distinct third in this most arbitrary of
competitions. </div>
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More ramen is always welcome in London, as are all things
Japanese in abundance. Some <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">izakaya</i> openings
in London could be fun, I’m excited about Koya 2.0 and finally I’d love somewhere with fancy tonkatsu like Maisen in Omotesando. </div>
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Until then, my eye is on Kirazu
to join the hype, become the fourth big ramen opening, and thoroughly ruin my Zelda
jokes.<br />
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</div>
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1717785/restaurant/St-Jamess/Shoryu-Ramen-London"><img alt="Shoryu Ramen on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1717785/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-29616721692495018262013-04-16T12:46:00.003+01:002013-04-16T12:46:57.857+01:00Crate Brewery<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Crate is a micro-brewery which does pizzas. It’s good.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwbQp1fOSI6iFMKgej_pYeKMrKmCRhZRIiaIzQUJRwjdewvKy1X4UBR0mJhBqt9iFRmYppXdEnhjK9m6Gy3EtB3gexcafIJDAo4UqTblJuj5EXwr6P5xUrLBON6JWYw8K2gVUS-MC3C4/s1600/2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwbQp1fOSI6iFMKgej_pYeKMrKmCRhZRIiaIzQUJRwjdewvKy1X4UBR0mJhBqt9iFRmYppXdEnhjK9m6Gy3EtB3gexcafIJDAo4UqTblJuj5EXwr6P5xUrLBON6JWYw8K2gVUS-MC3C4/s320/2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I should elaborate really. </div>
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In deepest, darkest Hackney
Wick (it’s weird), there are many industrial buildings which in these heady, post-industrial
times are more suitable for apartments, raves and yes, now brewing. Crate is a few
years old, a veritable old-timer for today’s brewing boom. They have the
perfect spot alongside the canal, with views to the various carbuncles of the
Olympic Park and Stratford itself.</div>
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About 50% of those alighting from the Overground beelined
straight for Crate; we followed a girl (in a chivalrously non-threatening
manner, I hasten to add) through the desolation and came across it easily. It
was packed considering the eerie quiet of the streets outside, and full of
bearded, industrious types scurrying around in their artisan's aprons for this higher calling of pizza and pints.</div>
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The oh-so-carefully placed sacks of barley and kegs reminded
me of that old Science Museum room where kids could play at industry: scooping up
grain and putting it through various conveyor belts and contraptions. Only a
bit more grown up. And not completely pointless, as the outcome is beer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHoYD4ctFDNUdSkvOTpFKlANj7Pk_0a-TqaaNX9Hdy5PupF89F7vRxaVQT08CxY00iVRlFW-Z4xcbUVoFMEfJ9bd2e-EljhjbZJxHjEeDUSZ5L_tllUcBD6yb-ODK-glmK66iO4LKrb6s/s1600/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHoYD4ctFDNUdSkvOTpFKlANj7Pk_0a-TqaaNX9Hdy5PupF89F7vRxaVQT08CxY00iVRlFW-Z4xcbUVoFMEfJ9bd2e-EljhjbZJxHjEeDUSZ5L_tllUcBD6yb-ODK-glmK66iO4LKrb6s/s400/photo+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Pizzas here are an odd bunch, but a merry one. My favourite
was surprisingly a veggie option – the stilton, walnut and blue cheese, which
sounds bizarre but was tangy and sweet genius. A sucker for detail, I loved the
thoughtful, egalitarian arrangement of sweet potato allowing everyone to have a
piece, possibly inspired by the local squats.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR0Br8nPdQSuybQeX1XKV8IVBUtPTIDTtE2Cmn2VYYFpEUytRO9GfX0b2sV58Ov5sPs9p1WDjFviWiiQezF9pcItmpJCEfSEMxLdSQ8pdVR4eFCulC30CozX4P9k7aPwGSlFNPPfoY8FQ/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR0Br8nPdQSuybQeX1XKV8IVBUtPTIDTtE2Cmn2VYYFpEUytRO9GfX0b2sV58Ov5sPs9p1WDjFviWiiQezF9pcItmpJCEfSEMxLdSQ8pdVR4eFCulC30CozX4P9k7aPwGSlFNPPfoY8FQ/s400/photo+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Pepperoni was also fantastic – a hot mess of gunk and
grease. And whilst not a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pizza bianca</i>
like the stilton, it was very light on the tomato base. And finally, the
grim-sounding but again, very good minced lamb and pine nut. A friend once ordered
a disgrace of a lamb pizza once (<a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/the-lansdowne.html"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">at the Lansdowne</b></a>), which was like regurgitated doner meat from Upper Street's finest, so I
was suspicious, but this was genuinely tasty. All crusts are Roman thin and the
wooden sharing boards keep everything tactile and sociable.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYM9Z8gCXCK23Y_vDBPdGCOtquSnxu5yZAwrQl0HME_m2aytnDEe7b-nodjJKljKgaKXupezV7b7byBg43n6LSaxrauMj7_KGohXEcieHaeyckPg5BiLA1b1qKW1RpmdVGhTjQBh6f0c/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYM9Z8gCXCK23Y_vDBPdGCOtquSnxu5yZAwrQl0HME_m2aytnDEe7b-nodjJKljKgaKXupezV7b7byBg43n6LSaxrauMj7_KGohXEcieHaeyckPg5BiLA1b1qKW1RpmdVGhTjQBh6f0c/s400/photo+3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I can be a bit of a purist bore about pizzas (and many other
things) but these were smart, salty toppings which perfectly complemented the
copious mead going down. In fact, the flavours worked so well that traditional
Italian pizza adornments may have made the whole beer thing feel a bit boorish.
Not that it stopped those vampy doyennes of Twitter Rachel Roberts and Grace
Dent from sinking a few bottles of red instead – there is something for
everyone.</div>
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So there it is – admirable pizza, interesting beers (they
stock loads beyond their own brews, including a rarity on these shores, Bear
Republic) and that canalside space. It would be chaos anywhere else, but luckily
it’s so far from the beaten track, it’s practically in Leyton. But if you’re adventurous,
and fancy doubling the population of Hackney Wick in one train journey, it may
be the best shout…<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3490736919598868680" name="_MailAutoSig"></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1707082/restaurant/Poplar/Crate-Brewery-London"><img alt="Crate Brewery on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1707082/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-12847401399096836282013-04-04T16:31:00.001+01:002013-04-05T09:18:24.210+01:00Monocle Café, London<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]-->So the Monocle Café has finally opened on Marylebone’s languid
Chiltern street. It’s a very different proposition from the <a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/japan-tokyo.html"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tokyo café</b></a>; the smaller space understandably brings a more slavish adherence to clean lines which is utterly on-brand. It is closer to the mould of a modern coffee shop than its department store basement cousin in Japan; itself more a stylised canteen or airport lounge.<br />
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The Tokyo original has more curves, non-standard angles,
texture and fluidity, which is ironic given that it was designed by <a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/japan-coffee-in-tokyo-kyoto-and-nagoya.html"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Omotesando Koffee’s</b></a> <span class="st">Eiichi
Kunitomo, enlisted due to his own impeccably lined, cubist masterpiece.
Ostensibly, he out-Monocled Tyler. But then, Japan is the muse. With a dash of Nordic governance and pragmatism.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9S5OXYnw8Dzf9QefBPQ1_JKGsO4j4lrAzBttvQLcomSe3coS2S2kH3BaHh74C9PV-76pA7v9pndV3-iFus76hcCSqL4H65t-CMatOQC93PgyBV1g_1yLWaay0zl6VjmsBbSe5HtLNoDI/s1600/photo+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9S5OXYnw8Dzf9QefBPQ1_JKGsO4j4lrAzBttvQLcomSe3coS2S2kH3BaHh74C9PV-76pA7v9pndV3-iFus76hcCSqL4H65t-CMatOQC93PgyBV1g_1yLWaay0zl6VjmsBbSe5HtLNoDI/s400/photo+5.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="st">Coffee is procured from East London Kiwi
outfit Allpress, served with Japanese inspired crockery and trays (for sale, naturally),
and is thoroughly Antipodean in execution. Which is to say excellent. Cakes
were baffling – they resembled the oversweet, glacier fruited cakes of
Chinatown, but with real fruit pieces and actually pretty tasty. I look forward
to the full menu, which promises more brunch items and possibly even gin. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR8khCZ3T5DbXtcjLHZeI5bhUuZNoRF_B0v5ytMZq3SMRGxQpdtVEr0gLbUqlfp2ISWMHfQfUlDhzOM7QWx4eQDQrxleBeI8FPSqnXeuIaW9OK5f5z0u5n6qWhjAQhvBxzskxqDTOkPCs/s1600/photo+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR8khCZ3T5DbXtcjLHZeI5bhUuZNoRF_B0v5ytMZq3SMRGxQpdtVEr0gLbUqlfp2ISWMHfQfUlDhzOM7QWx4eQDQrxleBeI8FPSqnXeuIaW9OK5f5z0u5n6qWhjAQhvBxzskxqDTOkPCs/s400/photo+4.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="st">The staff are Monocle through and through.
Really, the whole thing is. Whether or not the whole brand proposition is
fanciful and aspirational beyond the stars is beside the point (of course it is,
does the easily attainable sell £6 magazines?), as the delivery here is spot on. </span></div>
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<span class="st">Beyond some less-explored world commentary, bold ideas and voices on contemporary living, and its championing of print media, Monocle will be long remembered as an exquisite case study in branding.
It’s unshakeable, beautiful, consistent, ubiquitous and preposterous. With a blue apron and a perfect beard.</span></div>
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<span class="st">It has shrewdly tapped in to success, vanity, knowledge and frequent flyer status as manifestations of the professional man’s raw competitive streak,
and created something brilliant. I see it for what it is - as both advertising bod and targeted punter, and I admire it even
more. </span></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1741530/restaurant/Marylebone/Monocle-Cafe-London"><img alt="Monocle Cafe on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1741530/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-60609560502811950962013-03-22T12:45:00.003+00:002013-03-22T12:48:22.209+00:00MEATmissionMEATmission is more of the same. Whether that is a good or
bad thing depends completely on whether or not you like its older siblings.
Personally, I’m a huge fan of the food, booze and vibe so It was never going to
be a hard sell for me.<br />
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Differences here are that they take reservations before 7pm,
the space is more condensed and some food tweaks. Notably, the monkey fingers –
a huge serving of buffalo coated and fried chicken pieces. I could eat these
every day. </div>
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In fact my current buffalo obsession led me onwards to try the
buffalo chicken burger which was long overdue after a spate of dead hippies. It’s
pretty much a big monkey finger in a bun. The chicken ‘burger’ is absolutely
vast – you could quite easily halve it and fill two buns. It’s an unwieldy, greasy mess, and all the better for it.</div>
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A reviving glass jug of Brooklyn was punchy at £11 for
two pints, but hoarded and guzzled all the same. My companions Piglet and @scouserachel
preferred the sanguine hues of their ‘Time Of The Month’ cocktails. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOskt-mgdFY0mBRZSHBcIUoTdCcj-u23z-hvXGfCbzB3GeraBEO6-QyeuStwW0kEcJCkxgw2ivnvTRbDVi7cn_V7kxkW5JJ2qodZF0sKn6lOlxBEpczE0TwulztDB7QE7GRvOd1UpDAE/s1600/41.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOskt-mgdFY0mBRZSHBcIUoTdCcj-u23z-hvXGfCbzB3GeraBEO6-QyeuStwW0kEcJCkxgw2ivnvTRbDVi7cn_V7kxkW5JJ2qodZF0sKn6lOlxBEpczE0TwulztDB7QE7GRvOd1UpDAE/s400/41.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Service is friendly and extremely competent for this
cacophonous, well-lubricated environment. The space is an old Christian
mission, hence the name, and the stained glass effect mural is a nod to this.
Sort of. If Satanists had worship space, perhaps. Frankly, an old church might be the only way to top this latest venue in terms of gothic drama. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvOp-Az_Cu4qrYxKZ7eR2WRRCs9QSjFlQV_pChm_ftrEXXqA_OgNKJapBspMf_d9uVhzMXlvC2Ftvl3aZAd4QtnZ06eM3sjy_JdqMn5nev00LKuxQgiPGtd-d4MdlMegFP2wnQ_LY10j0/s1600/34.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvOp-Az_Cu4qrYxKZ7eR2WRRCs9QSjFlQV_pChm_ftrEXXqA_OgNKJapBspMf_d9uVhzMXlvC2Ftvl3aZAd4QtnZ06eM3sjy_JdqMn5nev00LKuxQgiPGtd-d4MdlMegFP2wnQ_LY10j0/s400/34.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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The burgers are high-end slop, the crowd is young and loud,
and you have that occasional reward of no-reservations; they thoroughly
approve of people lingering to get drunk. It's a go hard or go home sort of place and you’ll already know if you’ll like it
or not. I do profusely, and Monkey Fingers are worth crossing town for, but MEATliquor
pips it, primarily for being more spacious and a lot more fun.<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b> </b></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Food</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/10</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Drink</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">9</span>/10</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Service</b> - <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/10</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Value</b> – 7/10<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Tap water tales</b> – 8/10</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Staff Hotness</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/10</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1720869/restaurant/Hoxton/MEATmission-London"><img alt="MEATmission on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1720869/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></div>
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-61262433686446289122013-03-18T16:10:00.002+00:002013-03-19T16:33:45.042+00:00Bluebelles of PortobelloAnother new-ish opening on northernmost Portobello
Road (better known for Golborne Road admittedly), Bluebelles offers a vast brunch
menu and fantastic coffee in a familiarly contemporary space.<br />
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Confidence and consumption never left West London. But affordable rents did,
and with them went a lot of independent spirit. A generation of innovators and entrepreneurs has come of age in a time when most of West London is priced beyond viability. This little quarter has always
been eclectic however (and had tribes comparable to ‘hipsters’ decades before
anywhere east) and is seemingly returning to the map. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjfCWQPyTDR0ciwBLG-dEV6cDH5_Jt-kd_jOhvz0z8b_9D6e4W8nmxVdZikYR-Feor24qqLBu61s8hU-gazTXJM5LxoVI15AdKNOCh4W0tOV7r-fv8njS958b3R_163IlpDbrQ4UNVsI/s1600/16.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjfCWQPyTDR0ciwBLG-dEV6cDH5_Jt-kd_jOhvz0z8b_9D6e4W8nmxVdZikYR-Feor24qqLBu61s8hU-gazTXJM5LxoVI15AdKNOCh4W0tOV7r-fv8njS958b3R_163IlpDbrQ4UNVsI/s400/16.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Pizza East is the notable pin on the map these days, but Lowry
& Baker and The Crazy Baker both provide the coffee and carbs integral to resting weary
feet and thus underpinning any retail stretch. </div>
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And this is quite the stretch: from beautiful Ally Capellino to London's own Moroccan epicentre, via vintage interiors stores, fancy florists, galleries and high-concept hairdressers, there is a lot of faux-boho and decidedly upscale activity here.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAYXW_B44ZUXLPFxJccemoeId12JI4F7-SO4yiv5yHWD-ZzTGAnmPefQYQkyqM1LT9EzbyCOXfDuuV5j05mLUurnylM_wjaKMSeN6kFJg6_2YdDWrb13Ndw9Lh0Oq6FnTtG_B2mDkXTc/s1600/33.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAYXW_B44ZUXLPFxJccemoeId12JI4F7-SO4yiv5yHWD-ZzTGAnmPefQYQkyqM1LT9EzbyCOXfDuuV5j05mLUurnylM_wjaKMSeN6kFJg6_2YdDWrb13Ndw9Lh0Oq6FnTtG_B2mDkXTc/s400/33.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Bluebelles brings a third option within ten metres; a veritable cluster! Finally there is some
choice in terms of decent coffee around here. It’s with Caravan beans, and very well executed. As well as the full brunch menu, there is an array of the usual savoury and sweet stuff. </div>
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The café itself is buzzy, loud and illuminated by a selection of filamenty
bulbs, as well as those swirly ones from Dragons’ Den. Perhaps they were
indecisive, and trialled a few, and then decided mishmash was actually ‘the
look’ – who knows. With the urban starkness of exposed brick softened
by with the titular blue pastels, it’s a pleasant space. I liked the Moroccan tiles' nod to the Golborne environs. </div>
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And it's all very welcome in these
final weeks, before this pig trots south of Father Thames….<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1738717/restaurant/Notting-Hill/Bluebelles-Cafe-London"><img alt="Bluebelles Cafe on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1738717/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a> </div>
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-47632715852399542962013-03-14T13:12:00.003+00:002013-03-14T13:14:54.549+00:00The Clove ClubOn a stellar trajectory and with much goodwill, the team
from Upstairs at The Ten Bells have opened a second venture. The Clove Club is
within the old Shoreditch Town Hall; a modern space fronting Old Street
and a step change from their pub-luxe origins. <br />
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Imaginative renditions of
classic cocktails and heightened service levels formalise the experience
further. My companions - Chris from <a href="http://www.allthingsmeaty.com/">All Things Meaty</a>, @scouserachel on Blonde duties and her friend Hannah, were therefore reasonably excited and hopeful.</div>
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Food comes as a five-course tasting menu for £47.
Theoretically, this appears quite reasonable compared to others especially with
their starry reputation. And some finer dining is certainly welcome in these
parts. But as we embarked upon the meal, it quickly unravelled. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqidoZ7L2VFrcuff7iQhU0TYDNbT8XppZ9HMUcZk8gLqqcpazPemJbW2uz1OjzxCIwLOIiZr5f51-UEMSNVXBBNjCjlMkE_hLWozDrVx134qjXtPWzrPMnm8yndTHLRso1mds0SHPGd1A/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqidoZ7L2VFrcuff7iQhU0TYDNbT8XppZ9HMUcZk8gLqqcpazPemJbW2uz1OjzxCIwLOIiZr5f51-UEMSNVXBBNjCjlMkE_hLWozDrVx134qjXtPWzrPMnm8yndTHLRso1mds0SHPGd1A/s400/photo+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Radishes with black sesame seeds and gochuchang (Korean
mayo) were dramatic enough in presentation. The premise to dip in mayo and then
the sesame seeds would stick, I suppose. However the radishes weren’t particularly
flavourful and the mayo even less so. I’m not sure how anything could be less
Korean-tasting.</div>
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Buttermilk fried chicken thigh pieces in basket of pine
needles and cones. Dainty enough, and cheap so surely a reasonable portion
size? Wrong, it was absolutely miserly. Thigh is cheap too. The apparent ‘pine
salt’ was absent upon tasting, so this was basically a lone bite of posh KFC
popcorn chicken in a basket of Christmas tat. It tasted fine as most freshly
fried chicken does, but was another (and not the last) Emperor’s New Clothes
dish of the night.</div>
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Cheese Biscuits, Curd and Stems were another oddity. Take
the teeniest cheese straws from an M&S wrapper, halve them again and add a
dollop of admittedly tasty curd. The upside was that they looked like Frazzles;
the downside was that I’d rather have had a 50p bag of those. <br />
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Onto the clanger of the night. And even with the above dishes,
it did get worse. Enter stage left a massive plate of fennel, with a rancid
topping of purple seaweed and the odd walnut. The fennel was steamed but with
little seasoning. The seaweed wasn’t a delicate addition of marine flavour, but
that of a rotten beach. Possibly with a week-old whale carcass astride it, encircled by carrion feeders and covered in bird shit.</div>
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Swiftly looking forward after our table of four unanimously decried
the fennel course as ‘total bollocks’, the leek and mussels course wasn’t too
different. Yes it had smoked mussels dotted about, but we could not escape the
feeling that this was one massive (cheap) steamed veg plate after another. The
leek was in its entirety, so the outer layer was an obstacle. For the two
diners in our group not eating shellfish, some mini pickled onions were added. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again, a disappointing show of austerity and
blandness. </div>
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Rib of beef was delicious. To be clear here, I wanted to
like The Clove Club. I walked in with no prejudices or grudges, and I have no ideological hipster or age issues; I probably am a hipster by varying
definitions. So this isn’t a hatchet job (or a predetermined one anyway).</div>
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It genuinely was a fantastic dish. The beef was exquisitely
cooked, the potato batons were fantastic although predictably sparse, and the
juices were meaty and full of flavour. A larger dish of that and a rework of
the menu concept would have people coming back to eat. I’d be keen to see how
many return visitors they get, and how quickly the menu is rewritten.</div>
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Desserts were very good; blood orange is never a bad thing
and the seasonal badge of honour remains intact. It was served alongside sheep’s
milk mousse and more bloody fennel. Perhaps a cruel joke.</div>
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Another mousse (more Masterchef shenanigans) was great –
ginger this time, adding some long overdue heat to the sweetness and acid from
the ‘warm cider’. </div>
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Finally there was a chicory tea cake which we were almost
denied. It was given as if a freebie, although it was on the menu. To be
honest, we didn’t give a fuck by this point. Speculation was rife about snacks
to follow, or even a Meat Mission trip…</div>
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The meal did progressively improve, granted but if you serve
a trio of starters and two terrible courses, by that point your diners are
despondent and disinterested. The beef picked us back up, with some seriously
tasty desserts to support that, but then the bill comes along, slaps you in the
face and holds that mirror up to your mug-inscribed reflection. </div>
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We declined the offer to buy some off-menu cheese,
at a hefty surcharge. Wise at this point, just like clockwork we sat back and observed pitiful portions being conveyed off to some other less sceptical mugs. Nothing more than
upselling.</div>
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I have no idea what this was. Experimentation? Kitchen
skills A-Z? A midnight allotment ransacking? I don’t need a concept or direction (although I’m sure some abstract
nonsense exists in a PR somewhere) – but I didn’t understand this at all, and
some cohesion would provide some context. There was no zing, or spice,
or richness, or seasoning, or frankly any excitement in any way. </div>
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The
clientele, haircuts and tailoring are not what’s wrong with this place, nor is
the space or technique. It’s the onanistic boys’ club menu concerned more with
culinary adventures than with taste.<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b> </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Food</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">4</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Drink</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">9</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Service</b> - <span style="font-size: small;">7</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Value</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">5</span>/10<b><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">T</span>ap water tales</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">5/10 (filtered charged nominally, but sparkling too)</span><b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Staff Hotness</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/10 - o<span style="font-size: small;">ur watiress was pretty and friendly. Front of house and bar staff are very natty.</span></span></span> </div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1733161/restaurant/Hoxton/The-Clove-Club-London"><img alt="The Clove Club on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1733161/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></div>
<br />The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-5472787728368747142013-03-06T11:26:00.000+00:002013-03-06T11:26:06.223+00:00Anderson & Co<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]-->Anderson & Co is a café on Peckham’s
epicentre of localism and loveliness, Bellenden Road. Shrewdly for a
trailblazer in a nascent area, they cover off multiple functions like bakery
(sourced from Blackbird round the corner), brunch place, coffee hotspot, deli
items and plenty of sweet stuff for the afternoon crowd.
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We had a mix of the brunch and bistro menu. The Piglet went
for bacon and scrambled eggs on sourdough, which was cooked behind us (the back
dining room doubles up as the kitchen), well-seasoned and moderately priced at
£5, if dare I say it, moderately sized too.</div>
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I had the chicken, chorizo and three bean casserole which
was also about £5-6. There was a lone, soggy-skinned chicken drumstick which
didn’t rock my world, but beyond that was plenty of punchy chorizo, a rich
sauce and lots of warming beans. The zingy salad and excellent sourdough contributed
to make this a great value lunch indeed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH2JwNNFWyPJh_KQ90GUpFNBsdRFjsIXCW-ynLrKRW1fE7w4XBP-56_L4v_CX3LjutRpxZlY-gysbKD8HdfdpWPPFLhletYrS4Xgswe6unLtVdvruNieluKcFqLHiDDsqhGoISfJWNq-04/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH2JwNNFWyPJh_KQ90GUpFNBsdRFjsIXCW-ynLrKRW1fE7w4XBP-56_L4v_CX3LjutRpxZlY-gysbKD8HdfdpWPPFLhletYrS4Xgswe6unLtVdvruNieluKcFqLHiDDsqhGoISfJWNq-04/s400/photo+3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Square Mile coffees were a strong point too, including some
decent latte art, but I’m always a tad miffed when a long black is priced the
same as a latte (both £2.50 – increasingly standard for this part of town). Hot
water with a double espresso poured on top doesn’t require the same time, skill
or ingredients (milk). Still, tiny gripe.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDNBxp7VNxfJlf3L43kYXGKjPWEf7ym5Ad55_i6KYdvKm4YLnSPPd_anJen9tQAe5eflFCuirV-lY2fn4mitHhWD0phKoUsFtpIE5NvqVmR3V6JHJAL2WBFr3bJZ3S6mT4Eh89hyphenhyphenoJsHG/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDNBxp7VNxfJlf3L43kYXGKjPWEf7ym5Ad55_i6KYdvKm4YLnSPPd_anJen9tQAe5eflFCuirV-lY2fn4mitHhWD0phKoUsFtpIE5NvqVmR3V6JHJAL2WBFr3bJZ3S6mT4Eh89hyphenhyphenoJsHG/s400/photo+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Anderson & Co is the sort of quality local café every
area could do with. They host pop-up dinners, are very friendly and seem to be
pivotal for the community, knowingly fortunate enough to have Bellenden Road as their
village street. I’m curious to see if they adapt (or not) to the
much-hyped General Store opening opposite (who will be doing Workshop Coffee), but Bellenden Road can comfortably handle several decent
coffee and food places within its eclectic mix.<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b> </b></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">p.s. Bellend. Bellend. Bellend. Obvious <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">and immature perhaps, but </span>I'd be lying to my own <span style="font-size: small;">puerility</span> if I <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">feigned ig<span style="font-size: small;">noring it.</span></span></span></span><b> </b></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Food</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Drink</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">6</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Service</b> - <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/1<span style="font-size: small;">0</span><b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Value</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">8<span style="font-size: small;">/</span></span>10<b> </b><span style="font-size: small;">(would be a 9 <span style="font-size: small;">for food, 7 for coffee)</span></span><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Tap water tales</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">9</span>/1<span style="font-size: small;">0</span><b> </b></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Staff Hotness</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">6</span>/1<span style="font-size: small;">0 (homely!)</span> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1734265/restaurant/London/Peckham/Anderson-Co-London-Borough-of-Southwark"><img alt="Anderson & Co on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1734265/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a><br />
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-58713063008728553322013-02-28T12:17:00.003+00:002013-02-28T12:17:53.674+00:00Mishkin's<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Day late and a dollar short was this pig to the Mishkin’s
party. On a Sunday afternoon, it was relatively languid but having been past
several times (and with plenty of <b><a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/polpo.html">Polpo</a><a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/polpo.html"> </a><a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/polpo.html">experience</a>)</b> I can imagine how loud and
hectic it must get.</div>
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The food is an eclectic collection of inspirations and quite
resolutely refuses to be pigeon-holed. Yes it’s heavy on the New York Jewish
dishes, but East End Jewish features too, and yet it’s not kosher. You couldn’t
expect so from the man famed for pork & fennel meatballs or the pork
shoulder and pepper pizzette. And of course, it’s boozy, music-focused and
sceney. So really it’s many miles from being Katz’s in London, which the
laziest blurbs indicate.</div>
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However, matzo ball chicken soup (£6) isn’t something you
come across every day in London. This was a small bowl with only one dumpling
(you’d be strung up in NY for such parsimony) but it concealed plenty of shredded
chicken and veg in a light chicken broth. Clearly this isn’t New York and there
is better to be had <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">in situ</i> (for
about $3-5) but I was glad of the escapism and warmth on that hideous afternoon.
A regular ‘Jewish penicillin’ chicken soup might be a smart addition too, especially
as a seasonal special.</div>
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Onwards from a wholesome bowl of cuddles to a rich, oozing
mess. The mac ‘n’ cheese (with mustard and salt beef - £11) was quite
something. Baked and crispy on top, with a select few of those teeth-threateningly
burnt pieces. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Plenty of chunks of salt
beef – absolutely delicious. Do not be deceived by the size, this is rich,
heavy fare. I was stuffed full about halfway through, but persisted to the
inevitable stupor and slump. </div>
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East End chips with green ketchup were staggeringly tasty and moreish. The green ketchup seems to be something close to chip shop/Chinese curry sauce. Chips were crunchy, piping hot and yet soft inside, with some skins left on for a bit of variety. Superb. </div>
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Cinnamon donuts are rarely bad but I’ve had better (<a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/disco-bistro.html"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Disco Bistro’s</b></a> were world-beating) - these
weren’t fryer-fresh judging by the struggle they put up, and the chocolate
sauce was thick but too springy, meaning it merely imprinted the donut, rather
than transferring. Generous portion though.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaMAKvIlEqO_mmD17H4GCU_mWV_mJCHcFkL5ctaCiKdo98-fVP8fQWSywMbei4xa48TROvmyOXNYsOgPkNyyfMIJ8Jdn_NU4lh8FQWrJg60g9UNkBXQsO5A7xkGmdHKdU2nvtBgth7Bqp/s1600/53453453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaMAKvIlEqO_mmD17H4GCU_mWV_mJCHcFkL5ctaCiKdo98-fVP8fQWSywMbei4xa48TROvmyOXNYsOgPkNyyfMIJ8Jdn_NU4lh8FQWrJg60g9UNkBXQsO5A7xkGmdHKdU2nvtBgth7Bqp/s400/53453453.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Unlike Polpo and its small plates, there isn't any pressure to dine in a sophisticated or civilised Mediterranean manner – you are thoroughly encouraged to stuff your face, wipe the melted cheese off and waddle out. The size of the deli
sandwiches (including the famed Reuben) attest to this. I would say it's by far the best value in the stable, for this reason. I'd struggle paying £10 for a pizzetta having gorged at Mishkin's.</div>
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Service and staff are similar (attentive, clued-up
and quick, but totally into themselves) and drinks are top notch. The spiced negroni
(£8) provided a zingy kick to the Sunday, desperately needed to attack the cheese
gloop now sunken to the lowest fathoms of my stomach.</div>
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What I enjoyed about Mishkin’s its uniqueness and honesty.
This is not healthy. These are not small plates. Or for sharing. It’s selfish,
coronary-inducing food, far beyond the levels normally ascribed to ‘comfort’. It
does have obvious themes, but constantly surprises, twists and ultimately bangs
its own drum. Or shtick. I’m not aware of anywhere imitating it beyond
the odd reuben, and in contemporary London gastronomy, a dash of originality is a precious thing indeed.<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b> </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Food</b> – 8/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Drink</b> – 8/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Service</b> - 7/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Value</b> – 8/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Tap water tales</b> – 8/10 (jug brought and topped up)<b> </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Staff Hotness</b> – 9/10 (as ever, hand-selected by Russell I'm sure)</span></span></div>
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<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1632281/restaurant/Covent-Garden/Mishkins-London"><img alt="Mishkin's on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1632281/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-17458859913127939412013-02-26T11:49:00.000+00:002013-02-26T17:52:36.189+00:00The Parlour and The ChamberlayneWest London, and specifically North West where I currently
live, is a culinary desert. There are a few old favourites and predictable stalwarts,
but these are not the fertile, lush plains of Central and East London in terms
of choice, openings and excitement. <br />
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I’m not going to continue with the god-awful terrain
analogy. So where I might have mentioned oases, I will say that there are some exceptions
– mainly in related to buzz rather than quality or dynamism. Around Portobello,
spots like the Electric, E&O and the Italians of Kensington Park Road are
packed out, extremely lively but equally are part of the furniture. Crazy
Homies, El Camino, Santo and Taqueria feed the area’s many Yanks, giving the
area a rare edge on others for Mexican. And of course there is The Ledbury.</div>
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A little north of there, even less is going on. Shambolic
for somewhere so central and extortionate to live. Sacro Cuore’s pizzeria is
tasty but let down by apathetic service. The Dock Kitchen has shades of
brilliance (and not just Tom Dixon’s metallic numbers) but isn’t quite there on
the food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Too preoccupied with concept
and identity to relax and confidently secure its future. People are confused –
it is open? Is it a pop-up? Foraged menu only? Is there a bar? Shame
as the space is fantastic. </div>
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But the pubs of North West London are decent, and this blurb
is about The Parlour and The Chamberlayne. The former has been many things, known
to most as that other pub behind that suburban fleshpot The Paradise, the
Infernos of NW. However it’s been taken over by the Mall Tavern team, and is
looking rather slick. </div>
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The starkness of the tiling is given warmth with a sea
of mismatching, reclaimed wood tables, red booths and mixed up seating, and next door an attractive
teal dining room sports plenty of clubby amber booth seating and original panelling. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Inspiration seems to be Schiller’s Liquor Bar meets
Riding House Café. But it retains a pub feel, no least due to the many
interesting drops on tap – for example Anchor Steam’s Liberty Ale. Seeing their regular beer on tap is a special enough, so this is quite unique. </div>
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Breakfast has been lauded here and it delivers. They’re
trying the frying pan as a plate thing but seemingly bottling it due to lack of
space for the handle (some tables are a little small). The beans in the jar are a great touch,
although homemade might have been more exciting than Heinz given the effort in
other areas. Hash browns are not seen enough on brunch menus and the sourdough and
spreads bar for £1 (included in main breakfasts though) is cheaper than chips. Amazing
bacon too. Solid coffee from South London’s Volcano and excellent service. And
on weekends the kitchen is open until 1am which is a rare thing in W1, let
alone out here in the sticks.</div>
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From breakfast to dinner, and for carnivores it has to be The Chamberlayne.
Owned by The Salusbury team, they have gone for steaks and other meats (with
some bistro touches) rather than the Italian you’d expect. Steaks here are dry
aged and from a various sources, Scottish or English with the odd USDA guest. </div>
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My
T-bone was immense; quality meat, masterfully charred yet pink, well rested and
absolutely nothing to improve upon. As respectable as you’d have anywhere, and
at £36-ish inclusive of chips and a sprightly salad, extremely good value. An added
bonus was receiving both rosemary & red wine jus and a decent béarnaise as
standard – no fleecing on the sauces here. Chips were double cooked and amazing
dipped in the rich jus. <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3490736919598868680" name="_MailAutoSig"></a></div>
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<span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;">We ate in the pub
area on a Saturday night. It was rammed and so not much to say in the way of service,
but to be expected. One teeny gripe was that we ordered all food, drinks and desserts
(crumble was gigantic but mealy, loose and unfinished) all from the bar as per the pub
norm, but at the very end we asked a passing barman for our bill as it was so
busy. It had the 12.5% service added, which I think would not have happened had
we got up and paid our pub tab. Not the worst thing, but a little cheeky – our fault
for being lazy I guess and a lesson learned.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;">Clientele are those
that can’t afford Notting Hill – either willing exiles looking for space and
value, or reluctant snobs and penniless second sons. Think older dads working in TV and advertising:
turned-up selvedge, tan brogues and the now-encouraged salt & pepper hair,
having their monthly night away from Olivia and Rufus on the Guinness and
nosebag.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;">Both Parlour and
Chamberlayne represent some reasonable options in the area. There isn’t an
influx of fancy fried chicken, not many places to grab a flat white and
certainly not a sniff of Peruvian but food trends aside, there are several spots
for dependable grub in the area.</span><br />
<span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"> </span> <br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1717813/restaurant/London/St-Jamess/The-Parlour-Jamess"><img alt="The Parlour on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1717813/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/562159/restaurant/London/Brent/Chamberlayne-Pub-and-Steak-House-Willesden-Green" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Chamberlayne Pub and Steak House on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/562159/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-30939775925736851492013-02-21T10:53:00.002+00:002013-02-21T10:53:46.632+00:00Lucky Fried Chicken at The Grafton Arms<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lucky Fried Chicken is a pop up above a pub in Kentish Town.
It is so on trend and encapsulates everything current in London food that it is
almost a caricature of itself. Rumours were that it might be around for a
while, but it now seems as if it’ll only last a few weeks (at The Grafton Arms
at least).</div>
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Perhaps the margins in half-decently sourced chicken are
tight compared to burgers, which seem to be coming. Mixing pubby furniture with
a few booths, and surrounded by beautiful tiling which could have been pilfered
from the Northern line station up the road, it’s a lovely space. There is draft
beer upstairs (take note Disco Bistro!) and plenty of space.</div>
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The board is a pastiche of a generic chicken shop menu, but
the cheekiest touch is the familiar face on the chicken buckets, which I
imagine itself won’t survive too long before the letters arrive. Nonetheless I think
the Colonel would be proud. The chicken is well seasoned (there is no discernible
single flavour, it is just ‘seasoning’) and absolutely piping hot. Freshness is
great, but we couldn’t eat for about 5 minutes and even then had to use
cutlery. However it was juicy grub, with even boneless pieces very moist. </div>
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And grub this is. There is no semblance of provenance (being
communicated clearly at least) here – no-one is telling you about the farm or
the ingredients or the culinary process. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the crowd didn’t seem to care. It’s unadulterated
junk with no loftiness, emulating fast food outlets in a way that no burger
places have quite dared to do without a huge improvement in product. </div>
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Our table
was debilitated – the chicken burger was a soggy, delicious mess not unlike many I've had at 3am, but the mash
and gravy a nice homage to KFC across the pond as more canon accompaniments. The much-lauded cherry pie was overcooked, with a rock-solid base.</div>
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Fantastic fun but I doubt I’d return. If you took Kentish
Town’s Chicken Cottage, kicked out everyone brown, served Camden lager, doubled
the prices and played some 80s tunes, the food wouldn’t be a huge step change
upwards. Nicer tiles though. And marginally fewer nutters. You get the gist... go if this sounds all appealing, but don’t expect to
feel any more sprightly or wholesome afterwards.<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b> </b></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Food</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">7</span>/10<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Drink</b> – 8/10<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Service</b> - 7/10<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Value</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">7</span>/10<b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Tap water tales</b> – 3/1<span style="font-size: small;">0</span><b> </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Staff Hotness</b> – 7/1<span style="font-size: small;">0</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1731849/restaurant/Kentish-Town/Lucky-Fried-Chicken-London" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Lucky Fried Chicken on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1731849/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span><br />
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The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-78533778832214321552013-02-19T14:54:00.000+00:002013-02-20T10:26:06.810+00:00The AttendantThe Attendant is a coffee shop which has taken over the relatively iconic Victorian gents’ outside of the Crown & Sceptre pub in Fitzrovia.<br />
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I’ve been to a few of these in the past as bars; Ginglik is cavernously tragic,
the Spitalfields church bar is plain shite and Manchester’s Temple of
Convenience is too small and smelly to work, even with a tapestry of preserved
Victoriana.</div>
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But this definitely works as a café. The space needed is
less than for a bar and the robust, warming smell of Caravan's roasts is better than stale beer at eliminating what thoughts of what might have been. How curious that we are so happy to sip lattes and munch pastries in a former den of bodily functions and knee-tremblers. London after all does reinvention better than that desperate bag of bones Madonna, perhaps why she persists in darkening our door...</div>
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Great care has
been taken to preserve in some cases (check the fantastic repurposing of the
urinals or the tiling upon entry) and improve in others (peppy new orange
tiling along the ‘bar’) and it really succeeds as a space. Staff are lovely,
offering both water and WiFi code unprompted, allaying fears of a subterranean
lack of 3G.</div>
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For a tiny old bog, there is a pretty ambitious and tempting
food menu. Foxcroft & Ginger may have a new challenger for the best sandwiches
and lunch in London’s coffee scene. I was majorly eavesdropping and learned that
the co-owner is versed in NY Jewish deli culture and so we can expect brisket,
pastrami and turkey hand-sliced in situ as well as a brunch menu. Plans for future private dining hire and wine evenings excited this little pig too –
there’s only so long you can sit in a basement before grape or grain spring to
mind.</div>
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And as I enjoyed my perfect long black under the
lampshades of an old cistern, my head nestled between the cheeks of a formerly
working urinal (voyeur no doubt to plenty of illicit head itself), I realised that in London's
booming coffee-verse, duplication and choice
have grown quicker than originality. </div>
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The Attendant dispels any plateauing of innovation resolutely, offering somewhere quite brilliantly conceived and executed. It certainly
fuels the fire that Fitzrovia, now boasting Kaffeine, Gitane and the Scandi
Kitchen even on Great Titchfield Street alone, is now firmly W1's underdog coffee hub. And a lot cooler about it than Berwick or Lexington Streets.<br />
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1732997/restaurant/Fitzrovia/The-Attendant-London"><img alt="The Attendant on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1732997/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a> </div>
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-71112088998267596792013-02-13T12:58:00.000+00:002013-02-13T12:59:18.353+00:00Disco BistroOne of London’s previously unloved and underused gems (and greatest
assets) are the dining rooms on the first floor of many pubs. Central London in
particular is replete with these, and successes such as Flat Iron, The Young
Turks and many more have originated from humble takeovers of such space. It seems win win in this age of crazy rents and start-up costs.<br />
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And while Sam Smith's nabbed all of the show-stopping
gin palaces long ago, with the right treatment these dining rooms can be
incredibly handsome, resplendent with period features and atmosphere. </div>
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Disco Bistro in the deepest alleys of the City is one such
venture. The ground floor is The Rising Sun pub, still hawking £5 Peronis to yakky, gakky suited boozers but I imagine the dining room was previously sentenced to a servitude of team fish
& chips Fridays and not much of note in between.</div>
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Bore that I am, I had to try the famous Disco Burger which
is conventional enough, with the exception of a mound of beef short rib.
However rest assured that the menu at Disco Bistro ranges far beyond wings and
burgers, and includes quite grown-up, sophisticated plates, solid fish options
and noteworthy creative execution. Doesn’t sound like me though, so wings and burger it was…</div>
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My visit was with a group of fellow bloggers, food nuts and SLR
shooters, and feedback was unanimously positive across the various dishes
ordered. I hasten to add at this stage that we all paid full price for
everything.</div>
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This merry band enabled me to try a sticky wing as well as
my own portion of spicy (both £7). The sticky wings were strongly flavoured
with vinegar, yes there was sweetness beneath but the sharp, pickled taste was dominant.
This isn’t a criticism for me personally, sour as I am, but it may not be for
everyone. I’d say they’d work better as a bar snack.<br />
<br />
I did prefer the
spicy wings, which weren’t overly hot but had a decent warmth. Flavour was closer to an almost-Asian chilli route than a cayenne pepper/Buffalo recipe, and especially
without obligatory blue cheese and crudité support, these more than stood up on their
own.</div>
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With popularity comes debate, and wing portion size has become
a contentious issue on Twitter of late. Not quite Syria or equal marriage, but
a crucial topic all the same. At just under £1 per wing, this is up there with MEATliquor
for both value and quality..</div>
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The burger was excellent too. Value-wise, less so. At £14,
this will no doubt send many people running for either the hills or The
Hawksmoor (about a 10 min walk, near a Goodman too) but bear with me. The short
rib adds a depth of flavour and juice which I don’t think pulled pork experiments
have accomplished as well. The patty itself was perfectly cooked to medium rare
without any mention prior (plus point) and the practically liquefied cheese
oozed everywhere. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2oNkywfMeLT7qzIdbJEalQXC6swiNfb-PYETGeQCYDITttUiGogZDEqNJWh9jdd6NFRmeSdimEfe2MSHkPQzSKRL42x9s1toP75zWMGvWW1Fd9U6cPWwnZZWbXPE9CgsiV_XWV3jjUCID/s1600/323232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2oNkywfMeLT7qzIdbJEalQXC6swiNfb-PYETGeQCYDITttUiGogZDEqNJWh9jdd6NFRmeSdimEfe2MSHkPQzSKRL42x9s1toP75zWMGvWW1Fd9U6cPWwnZZWbXPE9CgsiV_XWV3jjUCID/s400/323232.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
One gripe was the barbecue sauce – not only did it make a
mess and derail the architectural integrity of the burger (yes I did just write
that) but even worse, it simply wasn’t necessary. The quality of the contents
sang through more than confidently without it. Fries were fine, but not remarkable.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG0wT-SoHtlPfZ98UgtUqLSmGFG-OJ9j8sUqMuR-VqkPSXNszS6GAQtf4SCTBBfLme5YMI4IE_uXh2hgYsSnB_zyznY9-Wz6LtabFbsg2OUbRHw2xVy2xjUa9w36aLJXwcUIWxIo9qutEe/s1600/4244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG0wT-SoHtlPfZ98UgtUqLSmGFG-OJ9j8sUqMuR-VqkPSXNszS6GAQtf4SCTBBfLme5YMI4IE_uXh2hgYsSnB_zyznY9-Wz6LtabFbsg2OUbRHw2xVy2xjUa9w36aLJXwcUIWxIo9qutEe/s400/4244.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
On to dessert, and another universal trend of late, the doughnuts.
I was a little slow to understand this, much as the whole Krispy Kreme craze
baffled me too. They weren’t a step change from supermarket ones at all. And I’m
a bit new to the savoury and even meat flavoured versions which Electric Diner among others are now slinging. The oxtail one at Two Nights Only I
didn’t enjoy particularly.</div>
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Luckily Disco Bistro's hark back to basics in theory, but with contemporary execution. These are gingerbread doughnut balls with a pot of lemon curd for
dunking. Fantastic – with the lemon providing freshness and a sharpness to diminish
the risk of overt doughiness, and the gingerbread providing a homely warmth to compliment
the horrible winter outside. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgtapBiumXd7yg4n3X39l6XywExJlHNelhMEFSljdJbgF5CepErJMDIWC6hM_D-MDjRkLdx_feiZ4E5Ni-AQUfpcMRYzTfMu9OK93bPlr66l5oOiJl3L3Dsl6mPTnNEMwoXOzqY_bJORQ-/s1600/345345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgtapBiumXd7yg4n3X39l6XywExJlHNelhMEFSljdJbgF5CepErJMDIWC6hM_D-MDjRkLdx_feiZ4E5Ni-AQUfpcMRYzTfMu9OK93bPlr66l5oOiJl3L3Dsl6mPTnNEMwoXOzqY_bJORQ-/s400/345345.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Service was friendly and accomplished; our group of 14-odd ‘foodies’
wouldn’t seem the easiest punters on paper, but it all seemed a breeze. One
mini gripe was the beer situation. Better bottles please, or deliver pints to
upstairs. The service charge should cover that. And another slight
disappointment was the vibe itself; perfectly buzzy sure, but not disco enough!
I wanted more fun and better music, they could definitely go further with the
disco house and the volume. Not thinking Car Wash and wigs here… </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
I’m not quite sure what the long term plans for Disco Bistro
are, as the pub dining room takeover seems to be a springboard rather than a
permanent home, so I would implore people to go as soon as they can. </div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Food</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">9</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Drink</b> – 6/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Service</b> - <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Value</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">7</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Tap water tales</b> – <b>7/</b><span style="font-size: small;">10 (jugs provided, not topped up)</span><b></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Staff Hotness</b> – 8/10 (friendly, pretty waitresses, clued up on the m<span style="font-size: small;">enu)</span></span></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1717912/restaurant/Blackfriars/Disco-Bistro-EC4-London"><img alt="Disco Bistro EC4 on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1717912/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-64065337755517001072013-02-08T12:36:00.003+00:002013-02-08T16:57:36.150+00:00North London Tavern<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</xml><![endif]-->Before writing up some fantastic wings, burger and great
service at Disco Bistro, I have a brief tale of woe to share. It concerns
another, less fortunate burger at Kilburn’s North London Tavern.<br />
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Said burger was dropped into my lap. Luckily the bun bounced
off my leg and decorated the floor, not leaving any marks on my jeans, but the
barman didn’t see this, nor did he enquire. He did apologise meekly however,
and offered to ask the chef to prepare me another one, as if it was a wonderful
favour and I should be grateful. It would take ten minutes.</div>
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Thirty minutes later, my replacement burger was delivered,
approximately five minutes after my intended was swept up from around my feet. Lovely.
I asked the retreating barman if I would be offered anything given that I’d had
to wait half an hour, and could not eat with my party and he seemed perplexed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0OaFXysd7u7hA6dgZGOs1kjejyMWy8IsiseMBUue-5eEGkNe_5koFRnL_gCnT1FM5wedoVgF6cmdfOswYomPAv0BJdXqyQOTCbnyd6nuebllfF4aHdTZsNwt8qJZ9dcO3d7G6gtCw0JDL/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0OaFXysd7u7hA6dgZGOs1kjejyMWy8IsiseMBUue-5eEGkNe_5koFRnL_gCnT1FM5wedoVgF6cmdfOswYomPAv0BJdXqyQOTCbnyd6nuebllfF4aHdTZsNwt8qJZ9dcO3d7G6gtCw0JDL/s400/photo+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cue a sweaty palmed manager waddling over with a ‘wanna
fight’ gait, except it was more “Is there a problem here?” – so not too far
off. He tried to dispute the waiting time, and then in the most patronising attitude
possible, proceeded with “Oh, is it a free drink you’re after? Fine, what do you want…”</div>
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No I don’t want a free drink you big sack of tatties. I’m in
a round of four and it’s quite obvious we’re about to leave anyway. How about offering
something when it happened, or giving a shit? </div>
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The worst thing is that butter
fingers himself was North American, and if this happened there I would have
been showered with all manner of excessive platitudes and freebies. Such a
shame London has ruined his service outlook, but he’s found his rightful place.</div>
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In the end, I suggested a dessert we could all share. Didn’t
touch a morsel myself though. </div>
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Luckily my friend also ordered the burger (safely delivered) and
so we could eat half at a time. The burger itself was overcooked, dry and mealy from
a breadcrumb-heavy mix. Precarious presentation on a wooden board does not
equate to quality, be warned. But it does increase the risk of wearing said
burger. </div>
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Shame as it’s decent as a pub, and I’ve never had any
previous complaints with food. And people drop things, that isn’t the be-all and end-all.
But how you deal with the situation is…</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/567619/restaurant/London/North-London-Tavern-Kilburn"><img alt="North London Tavern on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/567619/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-66321930195736580522013-02-07T12:57:00.004+00:002013-02-08T11:19:20.254+00:00Bay Area and Sonoma<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]-->Of the many people who visit San Francisco, and certainly
those from the UK, I imagine very few experience much of Oakland. And
generally I would say it’s a place you need a reason to visit (family in my
case), but it also has a few highlights especially for foodies.<br />
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Manhattan has its Brooklyn, and San Francisco has the
Mission. There isn’t too much to contest there. But Oakland is striking out in
a more balanced way. There are hipsters sure,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>but also plenty of baby-booming ex-hipsters and yuppies who simply can’t
afford any space in SF. Oakland has always been a very black city, and suffers from social issues in certain parts, but interestingly there is also a large black middle class population which adds a
different element to the place.</div>
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<b>Plum Bar and Restaurant</b> is on a small but perfectly formed
strip running down from the CBD towards the Lake. Here I had my best burger of
this trip to the US, following a recommendation from SF Gate. It was
a flawless clash of textures; a beautifully rich, soft patty
cooked rare but with some bite, and topped with an incredible Alpine concoction of caramelised
onions and cheese. The spicy fries were among the best I've had too.</div>
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This burger is 2 mins walk from the BART and easily worth
the 15 minute ride from Market Street. The bar itself had superb drinks and funky
décor (check the elaborate network of suspended tea lights and plum mural).</div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/6/1542973/restaurant/Plum-Oakland" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Plum on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1542973/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a> </div>
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Next door is a sloppy but delicious Mexican joint: <b>La Bonita
Taqueria</b>. As I mentioned on my SF post, I find the black beans and general US
Mexican food a bit more mushy and plonked than the food I’ve had in Mexico
itself. It is American’s comfort food, and could easily be apportioned through a
drip. </div>
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This explosion of enchiladas was exactly what this hungover
little pig needed, but at this Mexican equivalent of a greasy spoon there was
nothing delicate going on. </div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/6/86232/restaurant/La-Bonita-Taqueria-Oakland"><img alt="La Bonita Taqueria on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/86232/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></div>
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My absolute food highlight of the trip, and I would say best of 2012
was the <b>B Side BBQ</b>. This is a barbecue joint owned by the same people as the
famous Brown Sugar Kitchen, one of the sceniest brunches in the Bay Area. We
sadly couldn’t get a table there (which looked FANTASTIC) but they referred us
here,</div>
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I wonder if the team from Pitt Cue have been here? It’s BBQ
but done in a modern way, with bourbon cocktails, succinct menus and bar
seating. The food was outstanding. </div>
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My Dark & Stormy St Louis ribs were the most tender,
flavourful and juicy I’ve ever had. Amazing. Worth the 11 hour flight alone.
Sides were also outstanding; brilliant Texas toast with a meaty dipping sauce,
good pickles and dense, rich beans to die for. The pics don't do justice to the size of these dishes, they were enormous.</div>
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My sister’s baby back ribs with pineapple salsa were equally lauded, accompanied with creamy mac. Her boyfriend’s pulled pork sandwich was the
same - they live in Oakland and said it was the best meal they’d had yet. </div>
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It’s in a rather ‘characterful’ part of Oakland (think burning oil drums in Homer & Eddie) but I
couldn’t recommend it more. Come in a cab. Straight from
SF airport. And then fly home, happy.</div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/6/1642324/restaurant/Emeryville/B-Side-BBQ-Oakland"><img alt="B-Side BBQ on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1642324/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a> </div>
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Onwards from Oakland, as one must. Many visiting the Bay
Area strike out towards Monterey and Big Sur, or perhaps to Yosemite. A fair
few head to Napa wine tasting, but an even wiser few choose Sonoma instead.</div>
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Healdsburg is the spiritual home of the Sonoma wineries, and
definitely worth the drive. It’s barely an hour from the Bay and its quaint,
walkable centre set around a green square makes a pleasant change from auto-centric
California. There are numerous twee interiors shops but a serious amount of
wine bars and tasting rooms. Many of the wineries have their tasting rooms in
town – it’s ideal as you don’t have to worry about driving and can do a crawl. </div>
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It’s a tad sneaky too, because common practice in this
region is to use grapes from dispersed sites. So as their sources are scattered
around (with some scandalously coming from Napa?!) it means their main premises
may not be impressive. Hence the town locations. </div>
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My winery recommendation is the Portalupi team, who quite
refreshingly work with Italian grapes such as Barbera and Sangiovese, rather
than the ubiquitous Cabernets and Merlots. Also try Woodenhead and their
punchy, booze-filled Pinot Noirs provide a bulkier twist on this grape
associated with Ribena transparency and easy guzzling.</div>
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In Healdsburg it’s easy to get wine fatigue. Seems
ridiculous but it’s all anybody talks about. Step forward <b>Bear Republic</b> –self-appointed
state craft brewery and playfully jingoistic with it.</div>
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Their Racer 5 beer is relatively well known, and can be
found in London, but some rare and riotously strong IPAs can be found here.
Food is resplendently London 2012 in its natural habitat – all chicken wings,
mac & cheese and more filth and dirt than you could ever wish for. The
chilli bread bowl was particularly impressive slush. Not to mention the garlic fries....</div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/6/1212575/restaurant/Bear-Republic-Brewing-Company-Healdsburg"><img alt="Bear Republic Brewing Company on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1212575/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></div>
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Healdsburg is a genteel place however, so beyond California’s
best brews, showy food and cocktails are expected too. This is not Paso
Robles – the Sonoma apple has not rolled as far from the Napa tree as Sonoma folk would like to think - there is plenty of fine dining. We chose <b>Spoonbar</b>, where the cocktails were
beautiful and the bar snacks dainty. Who would have thought chicken crackling
with drops of buttermilk could be so fantastic!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi209UacocaLrWDK3Ix_2wx5MhBoMfQx3sgUxS-CFZKBBLJDXn1rz6ah-PmSOMwUhiV2f_3JfKku-1b7z-zOrSg8lrWU_0O4GlUk6EsWwvpUmJzVl1rxJO7Asxm-Yra4GdrwDUZfPOySLG7/s1600/26.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi209UacocaLrWDK3Ix_2wx5MhBoMfQx3sgUxS-CFZKBBLJDXn1rz6ah-PmSOMwUhiV2f_3JfKku-1b7z-zOrSg8lrWU_0O4GlUk6EsWwvpUmJzVl1rxJO7Asxm-Yra4GdrwDUZfPOySLG7/s400/26.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl9XCxXGxLcyg_bfBqPO7r_G6bDzk2xdKDMvvD4jwOC-zv6NGF9itqP1EwIpDeg8cHPqCNqnwBpYZn9-zngrMqggzavix2TKnvExwFoiLu-_BjbfcTHDBzMUd8ZB33_rZ8bG-BidE65ldn/s1600/27.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl9XCxXGxLcyg_bfBqPO7r_G6bDzk2xdKDMvvD4jwOC-zv6NGF9itqP1EwIpDeg8cHPqCNqnwBpYZn9-zngrMqggzavix2TKnvExwFoiLu-_BjbfcTHDBzMUd8ZB33_rZ8bG-BidE65ldn/s400/27.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/6/1543341/restaurant/Spoonbar-Healdsburg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Spoonbar on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1543341/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is more gush in this post, and its <b><a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/san-francisco.html">San Francisco twin</a></b>
than I am usually comfortable with. There was an analogy concerning female elephants
somewhere but I thought better of it. My avid readers (hi mum!) wouldn’t
approve.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Suffice it to say that San Francisco and the Bay Area has
some of the best, most diverse and sustainable eating and drinking on the
planet. Far more as a region and hinterland than New York I would say. The localism
of both wine and produce means food frenzy has spread across the whole region
and people are genuinely obsessed. I’d say that isn’t the case with New York
which is, much like London, a beacon shining out to the wider world, but casting
shadow upon the chains and mediocrity surrounding it.</div>
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-8924548984656968112013-01-31T12:30:00.001+00:002013-01-31T12:30:45.035+00:00Verru<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Such a tonic it is to have a meal in a normal restaurant, and
I didn’t realise how long it had been after a good year of burgers, pop-ups,
small plates, single-item menus, wine tumblers and a lot of queuing. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Remember when you booked a table at a
certain time, arrived at that time and somebody took your coats, and offered
you some fizz and you were then seated at an empty, set table? Bread and real menus
follow (which are NOT placemats) and food is served to you all simultaneously
and in courses?</div>
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<br /></div>
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Yep it seems so odd that in a
new-ish place is offering what could depressingly now be seen as a traditional approach,
outside of the stratospheric bubble of fine dining. Step forward <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Verru</b>, a curious mix of Scandinavian and Nordic food, prepared with
French techniques and served with bold colour.</div>
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<br /></div>
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At the top of burgeoning Marylebone Lane, it’s a tiny place
with little ambient noise save the clink of cutlery on porcelain and
self-consciously hushed conversation. An inescapably conspicuous arrival jars a
bit, but it soon dissipates as you slump into comfy seats, and fresh bread and booze arrive.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfrGM3bLiOAU6_wERqofVRTPgirmBfJcYR7yL6rfqjHfZAsb4LzoOuPAWNFDBkEPHlpJ5ly1TwznqcwlHH1vVufdtUL16EjuXwCFEIrq20IYpsQt-alUn-c8DmS3v_E0DUwq1DdI4dnFhE/s1600/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfrGM3bLiOAU6_wERqofVRTPgirmBfJcYR7yL6rfqjHfZAsb4LzoOuPAWNFDBkEPHlpJ5ly1TwznqcwlHH1vVufdtUL16EjuXwCFEIrq20IYpsQt-alUn-c8DmS3v_E0DUwq1DdI4dnFhE/s400/photo+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Yellow pea soup with a topping of crunchy goose was a
fantastic start. The soup was rich and deep in flavour and the goose did the
job of posh bacon bits admirably. </div>
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<br /></div>
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A tick list Scandi starter of meatballs on mash with carrot
puree was rich and creamy – the crumbly, homemade meatballs providing a bit of
texture to the smooth accompaniments. Correctly made, you can discern the different
meats involved, including veal which is a must.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2S0w0wttz064hgRJgDLK87vjcI42G_5mx8N9P__E4UZjbUZQ_OInKn7AE9yfALf1HtI6GrG5sswzms48CGXLhfgygUY54JxDSlAM9Gx_xJ-xXPKdt0klki1Yqdrlhk9Yf6_yiGpqmAqpY/s1600/photo+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2S0w0wttz064hgRJgDLK87vjcI42G_5mx8N9P__E4UZjbUZQ_OInKn7AE9yfALf1HtI6GrG5sswzms48CGXLhfgygUY54JxDSlAM9Gx_xJ-xXPKdt0klki1Yqdrlhk9Yf6_yiGpqmAqpY/s400/photo+5.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The other starters were herring and mackerel, neither being
my favourite fish so I must come clean and admit I didn’t taste them. But
feedback was lofty indeed – the herring was surrounded by fantastical mushrooms
and presented in an on-trend “oh look what I just casually scattered” forage-y
style. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPFmmG-FczbNWLyd5DhvMifjcX_kZDHhGWGcnLM2RIIYh3yCX1rjd7QmsFmLA3UWmIIRuQfzNO8mQzUVqxlBd2e2pvr5G0jNYu50mCejNAx9WlBaVt8SXx1GawXcw3E8Bq00bTsnJvopt/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPFmmG-FczbNWLyd5DhvMifjcX_kZDHhGWGcnLM2RIIYh3yCX1rjd7QmsFmLA3UWmIIRuQfzNO8mQzUVqxlBd2e2pvr5G0jNYu50mCejNAx9WlBaVt8SXx1GawXcw3E8Bq00bTsnJvopt/s400/photo+3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Mackerel was also entangled in a forest of Thor only knows what, and
with a brick of caramelised ham hock for good measure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_gQglqamN_7N91803QiqGEhLISS3-LOYx_WxXgiVMnQgFKgNfWDnkFmo1kjlgmva60q0llml98sGnikxbtGOZu_1UTQDFb1KuWE-Rp_A_UKwB4FeUnKp6PGo7zuC6LmeE6c2LffRlu45/s1600/photo+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_gQglqamN_7N91803QiqGEhLISS3-LOYx_WxXgiVMnQgFKgNfWDnkFmo1kjlgmva60q0llml98sGnikxbtGOZu_1UTQDFb1KuWE-Rp_A_UKwB4FeUnKp6PGo7zuC6LmeE6c2LffRlu45/s400/photo+4.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Onto the mains – lamb rump with homemade lamb sausage (so
close to that Masterchef chestnut of ‘X three ways’) with a slightly spicy
chutney, chickpeas and red pepper. Very good dish, although the lamb sausage
had a very high meat content and did almost get the better of me.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstB5-AmAIJg5LTgl8kxSWT1BgnSYxLcHvnqysbn9y-qQ9v8gVdL2rpzfwCfQ6DKpEj7iCgHKIDTPxW2-Mmo9WgCBzWo5qBplyoUuy6w9UXg5V4dgRVeaC1EkADnXZo8s-SjX6UBwH0k-Y/s1600/11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstB5-AmAIJg5LTgl8kxSWT1BgnSYxLcHvnqysbn9y-qQ9v8gVdL2rpzfwCfQ6DKpEj7iCgHKIDTPxW2-Mmo9WgCBzWo5qBplyoUuy6w9UXg5V4dgRVeaC1EkADnXZo8s-SjX6UBwH0k-Y/s400/11.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Halibut with pork belly was another star. Perfectly cooked
and presented.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Y77SFwmaPnqCri0hOq3ci1nehQK3u_mGA33QGzdjSsdJmM0xtFrwk4NGDxjcSAro9u_EReH8z7YBvKKWYYMyysRGe7g_ZRJ0dvIM3_muiDiFse2o8NeZUaQ57hrHmfO-OQ4GfRXEFg5z/s1600/13.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Y77SFwmaPnqCri0hOq3ci1nehQK3u_mGA33QGzdjSsdJmM0xtFrwk4NGDxjcSAro9u_EReH8z7YBvKKWYYMyysRGe7g_ZRJ0dvIM3_muiDiFse2o8NeZUaQ57hrHmfO-OQ4GfRXEFg5z/s400/13.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And finally, the venison. Again, beautifully presented and
cooked with the obligatory red sauce and a smidgen of potato. There is some
real care and attention in the kitchen at Verru and it shows.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPBoYFb75eS7aX5P1qRkKiUPcyy7YzI7qcRZHjEiWgyF3iEK6r-OZKnEGHKiJvCzUcNRQybTYhZ_R8jxq83VhD7gPoHi6n1WcKMSShTP7wXt7Hnf1LYy4N3egihJr3i7RvEderZuRM_ZL4/s1600/12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPBoYFb75eS7aX5P1qRkKiUPcyy7YzI7qcRZHjEiWgyF3iEK6r-OZKnEGHKiJvCzUcNRQybTYhZ_R8jxq83VhD7gPoHi6n1WcKMSShTP7wXt7Hnf1LYy4N3egihJr3i7RvEderZuRM_ZL4/s400/12.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Prices were £7-10 for starters and £16-20 for mains, but
there was also a cheaper set menu including a steak option for £16 including a
glass of wine. We had a sneaky side order of chips which were triple cooked and
excellent – but definitely needed.</div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
I liked Verru a lot and would recommend it to anyone. It isn’t
the buzziest scene you’ll encounter in 2013, but go for exquisite
presentation (provided you like a good pea swirl), thoughtful flavour
combinations and attentive service. </div>
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<br /></div>
Riotous booze-ups should probably go elsewhere – ruling out
my friends certainly – but it’s a discreet, relaxed and for 2013, defiantly
old-school option for a culinary twist on a date or the parental meal out.<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></b></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">F</span>ood</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">9</span>/10</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Drink</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">7</span>/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Service</b> - <span style="font-size: small;">8</span>/1<span style="font-size: small;">0</span><b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Value</b> – 7/10<b> </b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Tap water tales</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">5</span>/10 (not offered <span style="font-size: small;">but <span style="font-size: small;">on<span style="font-size: small;">ce <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">established</span>, topped up a lot <span style="font-size: small;">with ice)</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><b> </b></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Staff Hotness</b> – <span style="font-size: small;">6</span>/10</span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1579293/restaurant/Marylebone/Verru-London"><img alt="Verru on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1579293/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-83386146583621470412013-01-29T15:07:00.002+00:002013-01-29T15:07:52.946+00:00Aperitivo at Il Tempo<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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The origins of aperitivo are hotly debated; the vermouth
influenced aperitifs themselves seem to have started with Turin’s Cinzano
empire, but the culture and practice of today seems to be a Milanese
adaptation. Either way, who cares, it’s from up that way.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIMwPqATgWwggisrcywZbkHCcqVDNK_KtUj49HVn_88NFrNH7Wdha31ZKhggnfaDSH-7mx_l6hhKZKXDD51wdFP5wFGgN2uNxaOEAUtuBAKTLlcz9-OtBcv-qc1qzKGKHmWV3l66mHBVJ/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIMwPqATgWwggisrcywZbkHCcqVDNK_KtUj49HVn_88NFrNH7Wdha31ZKhggnfaDSH-7mx_l6hhKZKXDD51wdFP5wFGgN2uNxaOEAUtuBAKTLlcz9-OtBcv-qc1qzKGKHmWV3l66mHBVJ/s320/photo+1.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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We Brits can certainly learn a lot from the characteristics
of Italian eating and drinking which aperitivo espouses:</div>
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That is is better to drink in moderation (prices are often doubled) and always with
food, to not only slow your drinking speed down but also to reduce the effects
of the booze itself. And that you should socialise and network with friends and colleagues after work, but
also return home at a decent time to your family (sober-ish) for dinner. </div>
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Then again, at age 25 (let alone 30) we aspire to have moved out, so La Dolce Vita isn't quite as enviable. Supposedly some old-school mammas in Italy complain it
spoils their kids’ appetites, but among the many possible booze-related
grumbles, it’s not so terrible. Skip the starters and have a quick nip yourself Mamma...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8QvI1lsynDhPLNxoBAHJ48rWfRww41i0uBESkM2fIPicFgia9FkYPlfBPiiHoUrgaO87gN7R1H9WxoLIrDH8aMHXizGGpuyvMViWEAXEL9OO21kF0ZoLgB5EoMiHkgi0xifP3IelC9COw/s1600/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8QvI1lsynDhPLNxoBAHJ48rWfRww41i0uBESkM2fIPicFgia9FkYPlfBPiiHoUrgaO87gN7R1H9WxoLIrDH8aMHXizGGpuyvMViWEAXEL9OO21kF0ZoLgB5EoMiHkgi0xifP3IelC9COw/s400/photo+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And so, onwards to Il Tempo, a bar on Chandos Place, very discreet
to the point of almost missing it despite having walked past one hundred times.
There are scattered aperitivo options in London, but despite some optimistic
predictions the craze hasn’t quite skyrocketed as thought. It certainly is more
spoken of, but there is some way to go yet. </div>
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Aperitivo is not great here. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Firstly, there was no red vermouth which meant
no negronis or americanos; a heinous crime worthy of Mussolini-style hanging in Milan I’d wager. And secondly, the selection of food on offer was pitiful. Beyond
some postage stamp-sized morsels of peppers with a bland breadcrumb topping,
dry crackers and the odd olive, there was nothing. I didn’t have the heart to
photograph it as they’d have known quite obviously it was for scorn and shame
value.</div>
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There were upsides to this mature and cosy place. Our
Campari spritzes were huge, and the wine list looked impressive. We ordered a
mixed platter from the menu which was fantastic; beautifully fragrant
finocchiona, silky San Daniele and even better spicy and regular pecorinos, and
huge parmesan chunks. For £22 this was a great sharing dish. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1jufq9M7DmPO78gXZIY8mCNYG7grxuXmdoOFvYpm99mjuhNf6H6y4wqjXiYP51zTrKgf1Vp8wuQBZVaIMuIpl487muJLsjVMGTBdFMM3F3yR_3WSgSugYjJ1M1TarPqi6jFWjonk5c0x/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1jufq9M7DmPO78gXZIY8mCNYG7grxuXmdoOFvYpm99mjuhNf6H6y4wqjXiYP51zTrKgf1Vp8wuQBZVaIMuIpl487muJLsjVMGTBdFMM3F3yR_3WSgSugYjJ1M1TarPqi6jFWjonk5c0x/s400/photo+3.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Notably, most punters had ordered food off the menu and
ignored the aperitivo, and we exchanged some wistful, embarrassed looks about
the sad selection on the bar. They curiously have a gnocchi selection too – our
wild boar ragu was barely discernable and the two flecks of mince topping were
not worth the £8 at all. Avoid.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsPokgVhvOiyi_SJkUFDEpsWz-tRJInT6sSB3kkQD16ekDAPS4iC0lwvwnhfHwBahfJ98R83W8o3GyLyeJKeSfEMOoNCo7pCjoIJDZrk2tIOWrZy-GWCyyu7T1mI0O_Y_VOq3pOrZgUXfM/s1600/photo+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsPokgVhvOiyi_SJkUFDEpsWz-tRJInT6sSB3kkQD16ekDAPS4iC0lwvwnhfHwBahfJ98R83W8o3GyLyeJKeSfEMOoNCo7pCjoIJDZrk2tIOWrZy-GWCyyu7T1mI0O_Y_VOq3pOrZgUXfM/s400/photo+4.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">short changed on the cinghiale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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So the hunt for London’s aperitivo continues. Do not expect
anything close to Milan’s best at Il Tempo – that generosity of spirit has not
crossed the Alps just yet. The drinks are elevated to £10 but without any of
the treats this surcharge should accompany. </div>
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The bar itself is reasonable, the staff chirpy and it’s
worth a drink and snack if you can’t get into Terroirs perhaps, but I would draw
the line there. My <a href="http://theperfecttrough.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/milan.html"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Milan write-up</b></a>
not so long back suggests<b> </b>where to find the best aperitivo and exactly how it
should be… come on London!</div>
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</div>
<br />
<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1727852/restaurant/Covent-Garden/Il-Tempo-London"><img alt="Il Tempo on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1727852/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3490736919598868680.post-21095450621394062702013-01-23T12:34:00.000+00:002013-01-23T12:34:58.689+00:00Coffee in BirminghamNow, no doubt it’s not something on everybody’s mind, but
for the occasional visitor and about a million residents, the existence of good
coffee in Birmingham is an important thing. There is some brilliant Asian food
of course, both from the subcontinent and within the surprisingly respectable
Chinatown, but has contemporary coffee culture blazed a trail through this low-key
city of concrete monoliths?
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A tentative ‘yes’ is the short answer, and the best for me
was <b>6/8 Kafé</b>. Located in the north of the city centre (like much of the
better stuff, I noticed) it skims the shoppers’ precinct to benefit from
footfall, as well as from those in the know.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIyVLvaRVBNWbz0xtjtxudiMwBqvd6ZjQYClwRkKPFu6CBbyctCj-sp4yiZfHlpNvBMV-9mv-YjN4vEmFteGml5UBAi04HlPrUlrQeu2OvqtTjqvtla8zErG7h5_e9SM40u1Htq3RwlRZw/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIyVLvaRVBNWbz0xtjtxudiMwBqvd6ZjQYClwRkKPFu6CBbyctCj-sp4yiZfHlpNvBMV-9mv-YjN4vEmFteGml5UBAi04HlPrUlrQeu2OvqtTjqvtla8zErG7h5_e9SM40u1Htq3RwlRZw/s320/photo+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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My long black was fantastic – not too hot, strong, slightly
viscous and with a great crème. Beans were courtesy of Has Bean, which of late
has been breaking up the Monmouth/Climpson/Square Mile cartel quite vigorously.
The interior is comfy enough, with lots of wifi ponces making the most of it,
but space is at a premium. Perhaps the sign proclaiming it among the UK’s 50
best indie coffee shops is really pulling them in. Overall, a great little
place you’d be chuffed to have nearby.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCoatNWKlGTf3J9culvtAV7l30h4v6PkBN6oOg-8qNib7SdjJ7ANxOI8QNGMZixzf8IxhiYhmGW9CGZ2y6UEsQ-MogDvciCV24IYwwdkS8le6YZTVkU_J3KRrYBxm3KBdqzrffbsEil_zK/s1600/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCoatNWKlGTf3J9culvtAV7l30h4v6PkBN6oOg-8qNib7SdjJ7ANxOI8QNGMZixzf8IxhiYhmGW9CGZ2y6UEsQ-MogDvciCV24IYwwdkS8le6YZTVkU_J3KRrYBxm3KBdqzrffbsEil_zK/s400/photo+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTJeMkwCzDsVY33La-1-1Ao75Upb9-eI010pz-CmQGxSENWlzhTXgH91OIHulYTINYpb_xBr0h5eAKhJcy_rtBSkQ3q_euhDLhIxdfo0f6w8T1nmuU4TAqyE7WuQyVGsc7bQ4fvcNyc2q/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTJeMkwCzDsVY33La-1-1Ao75Upb9-eI010pz-CmQGxSENWlzhTXgH91OIHulYTINYpb_xBr0h5eAKhJcy_rtBSkQ3q_euhDLhIxdfo0f6w8T1nmuU4TAqyE7WuQyVGsc7bQ4fvcNyc2q/s400/photo+3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/339/1600746/restaurant/City-Centre/Six-Eight-Kafe-Birmingham"><img alt="Six Eight Kafé on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1600746/minilogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></div>
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Onwards to <b>Urban Coffee</b>, another outlet a little further
towards the Jewellery Quarter which seems to have proliferated in Brum with a
few outlets dotted about. This place has a characterful mural, a beautiful antique
steampunk espresso machine and plenty of seating. Food selection is very limited however
(breakfast offers toast or porridge, on weekends!) which was a shame as it’s
easily large enough and the niche is there for a modern, cosmopolitan brunch
menu.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVgcMNJTM3GxjyCjgjaqf8wbNyekTR6LVU-qlqR0jxzHrH7XTAnK-hSJvrmRFJQ1MWGAdpsAKV30vKgGTLl7Eu8zCEBTuzbJaWom2wP8szk0FPouTbg-s_SnUNSmBsJFjlO9htz2ZJX3rO/s1600/photo+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVgcMNJTM3GxjyCjgjaqf8wbNyekTR6LVU-qlqR0jxzHrH7XTAnK-hSJvrmRFJQ1MWGAdpsAKV30vKgGTLl7Eu8zCEBTuzbJaWom2wP8szk0FPouTbg-s_SnUNSmBsJFjlO9htz2ZJX3rO/s320/photo+4.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiVaroR02PnlFqeWvtLztnXEF9BID9W8jZSgDYl-s-QGybN8lUBlemXY-uwajhbXpS6Y3lhwPIdFQcaROHEVFVv88wRXPdtUi7uLA4MRYGdxxUQuxEbqFuxqvEvr33UNL3y_b77V3EePZp/s1600/54454353245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiVaroR02PnlFqeWvtLztnXEF9BID9W8jZSgDYl-s-QGybN8lUBlemXY-uwajhbXpS6Y3lhwPIdFQcaROHEVFVv88wRXPdtUi7uLA4MRYGdxxUQuxEbqFuxqvEvr33UNL3y_b77V3EePZp/s320/54454353245.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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My Americano here was a bit heavy on the volume and thus not
strong enough. Perhaps my fault for not ordering a long black – in the best of
coffee shops, they will execute different coffees on this distinction.
Get it on the board, guys.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirrVsqwnFyc7Gfq9cJM71CvzSm7dTq_AMbYNIToFwNRkRX9gDz4W4xl-sYoBf1YhNInL8nDoUYtHnB5-7WcGrClAo3unY8dnA9w_8APAgWbGQaJJ7EZlsAVpvRHYJ7Yh-m006eE6EPRt82/s1600/5452544242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirrVsqwnFyc7Gfq9cJM71CvzSm7dTq_AMbYNIToFwNRkRX9gDz4W4xl-sYoBf1YhNInL8nDoUYtHnB5-7WcGrClAo3unY8dnA9w_8APAgWbGQaJJ7EZlsAVpvRHYJ7Yh-m006eE6EPRt82/s320/5452544242.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/339/1469155/restaurant/City-Centre/Urban-Coffee-Company-Birmingham"><img alt="Urban Coffee Company on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1469155/minilogo.gif" style="border: medium none; height: 15px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a></div>
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And so in pursuit of brunch, we found ourselves next door at
<b>Home</b>. This is a deli-cum-farm shop vibe, with lots of twee decorations and
crates of fruit and veg. Decent coffee though (Urban’s Americano left this
hungover pig with a hankering for more caffeine) and the bacon roll was spot
on. </div>
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Alas still no eggs benny or pancakes to be found on my wanderings, Birmingham…so where is the good stuff? While there is definite scope to avoid the chains and get decent coffee in this city formerly known as second, there is still a lot more potential. </div>
The Perfect Troughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13823320056312413405noreply@blogger.com3