Lucky Fried Chicken is a pop up above a pub in Kentish Town.
It is so on trend and encapsulates everything current in London food that it is
almost a caricature of itself. Rumours were that it might be around for a
while, but it now seems as if it’ll only last a few weeks (at The Grafton Arms
at least).
Perhaps the margins in half-decently sourced chicken are
tight compared to burgers, which seem to be coming. Mixing pubby furniture with
a few booths, and surrounded by beautiful tiling which could have been pilfered
from the Northern line station up the road, it’s a lovely space. There is draft
beer upstairs (take note Disco Bistro!) and plenty of space.
The board is a pastiche of a generic chicken shop menu, but
the cheekiest touch is the familiar face on the chicken buckets, which I
imagine itself won’t survive too long before the letters arrive. Nonetheless I think
the Colonel would be proud. The chicken is well seasoned (there is no discernible
single flavour, it is just ‘seasoning’) and absolutely piping hot. Freshness is
great, but we couldn’t eat for about 5 minutes and even then had to use
cutlery. However it was juicy grub, with even boneless pieces very moist.
And grub this is. There is no semblance of provenance (being
communicated clearly at least) here – no-one is telling you about the farm or
the ingredients or the culinary process. And the crowd didn’t seem to care. It’s unadulterated
junk with no loftiness, emulating fast food outlets in a way that no burger
places have quite dared to do without a huge improvement in product.
Our table
was debilitated – the chicken burger was a soggy, delicious mess not unlike many I've had at 3am, but the mash
and gravy a nice homage to KFC across the pond as more canon accompaniments. The much-lauded cherry pie was overcooked, with a rock-solid base.
Food – 7/10
Drink – 8/10
Service - 7/10
Value – 7/10
Tap water tales – 3/10
Staff Hotness – 7/10
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