The island has always been a
big of an enigma for many - (is it in the Canaries? can you even stay the night
there?) - which has handily kept it relatively crowd-free for its aficionados.
Only accessible via quick ferry from Ibiza, the lack of an airport has kept development low.
Admittedly more is being built, but it’s all relative to what was there before
(not much) and the paradisaical feel of the island endures away from the port.
The hotel at Gecko is a refurbishment of a previously
unlovely hotel, and traces of the quite ugly or should I say functional,
building remain. The beauty is in the public space. The restaurant and veranda
look onto beautiful gardens, now replete with a pool and pool bar, and the sea
is all of ten steps away. The furniture is designed for lounging, and the
Ibicencan ethno-lite chill out music emanating from hidden speakers in the
greenery creates a genuine calm.
It’s completely unforced and the
concept of having nothing to do except relax and live your days slowly
eventually does permeate this itchy city-dweller. I usually take about four
days to forget work and genuinely kick back, but at Gecko it happens within the hour.
The bar and restaurant area cater for refined tastes (the
wine list is quite something) but are also completely unpretentious. On the
particular day below, the chicken Caesar salad and spaghetti pomodoro were
exactly what the doctor ordered, but cuisine ranges from some Med-Asian fusion
(I know, but it’s actually very good) to burgers and club sandwiches. Cocktails
are camp, kitsch and ridiculous, exactly what you want from a beach club.
Everything is engineered so that you don’t need to leave,
and you really don’t except when it comes to beach time. The Migjorn Beach sweeps
along Formentera’s south coast, but the particular strip by Gecko isn’t the
best bit. There is a boardwalk which leads to a fantastic beer and pizza shack
along the beach, but the best part is much further east, close to Flipper
& Chiller – a showy beach bar.
Or even better, head to Ses Illetes at the north of the
island (about a ten minute drive from Gecko) and you could be rewarded with
scenes like this, with water so perfect and clear, you can hardly believe it
was a two hour flight, rather than twelve.
Gecko’s rooms aren’t the most exciting, they’re functional
and lacking a little in flair but with the superb lounging space and Formentera’s
pine-scented landscape and coastline, it doesn’t matter one bit.
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